Backpacking through Southeast Asia

2 Comments / August 31, 2012

Adventure of a Lifetime

It was with some trepidation last May that I embarked on a three week trek through six countries in Southeast Asia…on my own! With nothing but a pack on my back I made my way through Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, hitching a ride on everything from planes, trains, buses and boats to taxis, bicycles, motor scooters and tuk tuks (more on that later). Heading out into uncharted territory like that is all part of the fun and I think what motivates most adventure travelers. Little did I know how easy it would be and how smoothly I would be able to make connections and find accommodations. While I did do a lot of planning ahead of time, I made no reservations in advance, except for the first night in Singapore. The timing could not have been better, with fewer crowds after the peak season and perfect (albeit hot) weather just before the wet season which begins in June. In the end, I got to see some of the most popular tourist destinations in the world and met friendly, helpful people everywhere I went. This was truly the adventure of a lifetime.

Bargain Hunter’s Paradise

Of the many things that make Southeast Asia a paradise on earth, none will be more appreciated by the value-minded traveler than the plethora of bargains waiting to be redeemed. As word gets out, it’s hard to say how long this will last, but for now savvy travelers like the many backpackers and students I encountered along the way are taking advantage of the low prices, reminiscent of the bargains available in Eastern Europe ten to fifteen years ago. On most evenings, the first hotel I walked into had a room available, sometimes for as little as $20, including breakfast! With the exception perhaps of Singapore, all of my accommodations were a great value for the money. My hotel in Hoi An, Vietnam even came with a bicycle! And traveling from one point to the next, whether by plane, train or bus, was unbelievably inexpensive. I actually traveled on a comfortable bus from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Bangkok, Thailand for $12. And how ‘bout this…dinner at a charming French restaurant in Luang Prabang, Laos for $7.50. I think you get the idea. Southeast Asia is a bargain hunter’s paradise and you’ll want to take advantage of it while it’s still possible.

The Petronas Twin Towers from My Hotel Room, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Cultural Potpourri

Within the relatively small area of Southeast Asia, you will experience a variety of cultures and meet a lot of friendly, interesting people. Everywhere I went, folks went out of their way to be helpful and nice and many times where as interested in me as I was in them. Singapore is like a microcosm of the entire area, where people from many backgrounds, religions and cultures all live together in harmony. Malaysia is a moderate Islamic country that stands out as a shining example of what a Muslim country can be. I found the people of Malaysia to be very welcoming and also proud to show off the many interesting things about their beautiful country. Thailand is a thriving, modern constitutional monarchy and boasts the world’s longest ruling monarch. Thai and Chinese are the main ethnic groups there and Buddhism is the primary religion. In contrast, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia are communist countries, but even the most observant visitor would be hard pressed to see any evidence of it. Instead, what you are more likely to notice is that these are burgeoning capitalist countries full of hopeful people. It was especially heart warming for me as an American to find how warmly I was greeted throughout Vietnam. So, if it’s culture you’re looking for, Southeast Asia is brimming with it.

World Heritage Sites Abound

There are no less than 20 UNESCO designated World Heritage Sites in the six countries that I visited in Southeast Asia and among them are some of the most famous in the world. One of the highlights of my trip was seeing the temple complex at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, which had been on my bucket list since I was a kid. The historic trading city of George Town on the Straits of Malacca in Malaysia is another designated site and will give visitors a glimpse into the colonial era of Southeast Asia. Of the many World Heritage Sites located in Vietnam, there are two that you absolutely must plan to see during your swing through this beautiful country. Ha Long Bay, meaning Bay of Descending Dragons, is up north and about 100 miles east of Hanoi. Almost 2000 incredibly shaped islands dot this area in the Gulf of Tonkin and there are many tour boats waiting to take you out to see them. Midway down the long, narrow outline of Vietnam on the map is the ancient town of Hoi An. Much of this quaint little city has been preserved and it now attracts many visitors from around the world. Perhaps the most out of the way site I visited was the historic city of Luang Prabang located on the Mekong River in the northern mountains of Laos. Just when you think you are at the end of the world, you find yourself in a town full of interesting temples, charming French provincial architecture, great hotels and scrumptious dining. These fabulous World Heritage Sites alone should be enough to get you thinking about your trip to Southeast Asia.

Planning Your Trip

The best plane fares to and from Southeast Asia will be found using gateway cities like Singapore and Bangkok. To save time and money and avoiding backtracking, I purchased what is called an ‘open-jaw’ ticket, which means you arrive in one city and depart from another, Singapore and Bangkok, in my case. This enabled me to add a visit to Singapore and a trip up the Malay Peninsula onto the beginning of my itinerary. Then it was simply a matter of traveling the circuit from Bangkok up north to Laos and then down through Vietnam and finally across Cambodia back to Bangkok. It was actually fairly easy travel and half the fun was the variety of modes of transportation along the way. For travelers from the U.S. the only visa that should be arranged before the trip is for Vietnam. No visa is required for Singapore, Malaysia or Thailand and a visa on arrival can be obtained in Laos ($30) and Cambodia ($20). The money situation can seem a little intimidating at first, since each country has its own currency: Singapore dollars, Malaysian ringgits, Thai bahts, Laotian kips, Vietnam dongs, and Cambodian riels. Fortunately, in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia the U.S. dollar is accepted almost everywhere, so I highly recommend taking plenty of cash including small bills like ones, fives and tens. There will be lots more information, tips and photos from my recent trip to Southeast Asia in upcoming articles on Blue Orb Travel, so I hope you will stay tuned and come back often.

Backpacking through Southeast Asia Read More »

Yosemite National Park with El Capitan and Bridal Veil Falls

Treasures of the Sierra Nevada

5 Comments / August 10, 2012

Northern California Gems

From the historic gold laden foothills to the alpine lakes and forests of the high country, there are countless places of interest to visit in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Northern California. Whether you enjoy recreation, sightseeing, relaxing or all of the above you will want to include a trek to this beautiful part of God’s creation on your next visit to the Golden State. Join us as we explore four treasures of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in Northern California. Yosemite and Lake Tahoe are the two well known crown jewels of the Sierras and, while Bishop and Lake Alpine may have fewer visitors, we’re sure you’ll want to know more about them, too. All four of these gems are an easy drive from San Francisco and well worth the trip.

Yosemite National Park

Arguably the premier national park in the United States, if not the world,Yosemite National Park is a destination that every traveler should have on their list of must see places. To suit all manner of tastes, accommodations in Yosemite run the gamut from ‘tenting on the old campground’ to a $500 room at the elegant Ahwahnee Hotel. Whichever you choose, once you’re settled in and have stopped gasping at the breathtaking scenery you can begin exploring this magnificent valley. A river runs through it and at some point you should plan to float down the Merced River on a rented raft. Along the way you’ll pass Yosemite Falls, the highest waterfall in North America and sixth highest in the world, and El Capitan, one of the world’s largest granite monoliths and a favorite of extreme rock climbers. Bring your binoculars so you can look for them ascending the sheer face of this famous mountain. Later as you explore the valley by car you’ll want to visit the base of Bridal Veil Falls and Yosemite Falls, both of which are easily accessible on foot. History buffs won’t want to miss the Miwok/Paiute Indian Village, the Indian Caves and the several museums located in the valley. A visit to Camp Curry, the original camp established at the foot of Glacier Point in 1899 and now a hub of activity is a great way to end the day.

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls, Yosemite

Hikers usually congregate at Happy Isles before heading up this part of the John Muir Trail. The first leg is the favorite Mist Trail to Vernal Falls, which is an ideal hike for families. For those in good shape who want to continue on up the trail, Nevada Falls is the next level and farther yet for the truly adventurous is the world famous Half Dome climb, an exhilarating experience enjoyed by visitors from around the globe. The 18 mile hike from Happy Isles to the top of Half Dome and back can be done in one day and I have actually done it twice. The final cable ascent up the slick back side of Half Dome is a thriller and has become so popular that you must now get a permit in advance to be one of the 400 hikers allowed to make the climb each day. If you’re not into hiking you can still drive up to the top of Glacier Point or to beautiful Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake. Just to give you some sense of the incredible beauty of Yosemite, I once witnessed a bus load of tourists from Switzerland oohing and awing as they stood transfixed by the scenery surrounding them while looking up from the valley floor.

Bishop, California

The one and a half hour drive from Yosemite to Bishop just 75 miles to the southeast will take you through Tuolumne Meadows, past Tenaya Lake and over the infamous Tioga Pass. After coming down from the mountains into the little town of Lee Vining on the east side of the Sierras you’ll want to take a look at nearby Mono Lake and the otherworldly tufa formations that line its shores. If time permits you can take a peek at June Lake and Mammoth Lakes before arriving in Bishop, the only city in Inyo County. Calling it a city is a bit misleading, as it’s more like stepping into a little western town back in the 1950s. Located in the Owens Valley with the trout filled Owens River flowing through it, Bishop is a magnet for sports aficionados from around the country and the nearby ski resorts and trailheads to the Sierras only add to the draw. If you are lucky enough to be there on the 4^th of July, you can join in with the locals for an awesome fireworks display at the Bishop Airport. And be sure to have lunch at the popular Erick Schat’s Bakkery and Deli on Main Street.

Ever thought of taking a horseback ride up into the mountains? Well, Rainbow Pack Outfitters (named for the Rainbow Trail) is a family friendly business located just outside of Bishop that can make your dream come true. I took the four hour guided ride with family and friends up to Long Lake and highly recommend this as a way to experience the back country from the comfort of the saddle. Some of the trail drop-offs can be a bit hair-raising, but the sure-footed horses know their way. If all this isn’t enough to get you to Bishop, how about this! Just an hour’s drive east of Bishop up in the White Mountains are the oldest known living (non-clonal) organisms on earth, the Bristlecone Pines. Some of these trees are nearly 5,000 years old and were just getting started around the time the Pyramids were being built in Egypt. While it is well worth the trip to see these national treasures, the road is steep and winding in places so large RVs and trailers should not attempt this climb. And an hour south of Bishop are the Alabama Hills with their unusual rock formations which you are sure to recognize from the many movies and television shows that were filmed there. With a combination of driving and hiking you can see the old stomping grounds of Gene Autry, Hopalong Cassidy and the Lone Ranger and might even get a glimpse of nearby Mt. Whitney, the tallest mountain in the lower 48 states.

Horseback Riding with Rainbow Outfitters, Bishop, California

Lake Tahoe

Farther north up the mountainous backbone of the western United States is the other crown jewel of the Sierra Nevada, Lake Tahoe. Located on the border of California and Nevada, Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America and the second deepest lake in the United States. Completely surrounded by a stunning vista of mountains, Lake Tahoe is one of the most popular destinations for natives of the Golden West. It would literally require a book to describe all that this gorgeous lake and surrounding region have to offer, such as scenery, recreation, and sports, as well as entertainment and gambling at the North and South Shore state lines. While Squaw Valley was the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, it is just one of many world class ski resorts that dot the area. It seems like just yesterday that I took my first shaky run down the slopes at Heavenly Valley when I was in high school! While there are many motels and hotels available for visitors to the Tahoe area, camping is an inexpensive, fun way to experience the great outdoors…and there is just something about the smell of the pines up in this part of the Sierras! I can recommend the Fallen Leaf Lake campground at South Lake Tahoe, where I stayed with family and friends last month and the nearby Camp Richardson beach, one of the most pristine, clean, safe and beautiful beaches I’ve seen in a long time.

There are numerous side trips that visitors can take while visiting Lake Tahoe. Just 11 miles to the northwest is Donner Lake, where the ill-fated Donner Party spent the winter of 1846. If you like history, be sure to visit the Donner Memorial State Park and its Immigrant Trail Museum and explore the sites where their makeshift cabins were built by the lake and at nearby Alder Creek. About 60 miles east of North Shore Lake Tahoe is Reno, Nevada with its well-known casinos and entertainment. Just 26 miles south of Reno is the historic old silver mining town of Virginia City, where Samuel Clemens lived for a time and where he first began using his pen name of Mark Twain. While there you can visit Boot Hill and take a ride on the old steam train before stopping at the Bucket of Blood Saloon for a beer or a sarsaparilla.

Lake Alpine

The fourth gem in our Sierra Nevada treasure trove is Lake Alpine, located between Yosemite (3.5 hours or 144 miles to the south) and Lake Tahoe (just 1 hour or 50 miles to the north). If you’re looking for some of the same features as Yosemite and Tahoe, but without the crowds, this is a place you’ll want to check out. A study in contrasts, Alpine County is known for its high snow-covered peaks and its low population (just 1,175 in 2012). The nearby Bear Valley Ski Resort is responsible for a noticeable bump in the population during the winter. This area figured prominently in the westward migration to California just before and during the gold rush of the mid 1800s and is the site of an old immigrant trail. First explored by the likes of Kit Carson and John Fremont, Alpine County has retained its rugged wilderness ambience into the 21^st Century.

Lake Alpine itself was formed in 1892 with the damming of Silver Creek by miners. It has now become a year round destination for those who enjoy fishing, camping, hiking, biking and canoeing or winter sports such as skiing and snowshoeing. One of the nicest features of the area is the nearly two miles of paved trails around the lake, making it accessible to wheelchairs. Don’t let the name discourage you from going just up the road to visit lily covered Mosquito Lake, a favorite of fishermen. The Ebbett’s Pass National Scenic Byway extends east of Lake Alpine heading towards Markleeville and is a beautiful, albeit winding, drive through some untouched sierra scenery. At an altitude of nearly 9,000 feet, the pass is closed due to snow in the winter. If you’d like to stay to stay overnight you can either camp or stay at the Lake Alpine Resort, a charming lodge that dates back to the 1930s.

I hope you have enjoyed this whirlwind tour of four treasures of the Sierra Nevada and will be inspired to visit these mountain gems someday. Take a tip from John Muir, one of the first visitors to appreciate this part of the country:

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

Treasures of the Sierra Nevada Read More »

Cycling Through the Netherlands

July 28, 2012

The Netherlands by Bike and Train

The Netherlands is a small, flat country and as such is possibly the most suitable place in the world for a cycling holiday. There are endless cycle paths and despite the flatness, there are many beautiful scenic areas for you to discover. Get away from the tourist traps in Amsterdam and discover the rest of the Netherlands. Use fromatob.co.uk to find out how to get a train between these top attractions.

The ‘Green Heart’

The ‘Green Heart’ is an area marked out on the map by the four largest cities in the Netherlands. There are some towns in the Green Heart, but the majority of the area consists of open fields, lakes and canals, and of course, cycle lanes. Popular tourist attractions are the town of Gouda, home of the world famous cheese, and Alphen aan den Reijn. Camping is a popular past-time in the Netherlands and any decent sized town will have a tourist office that can guide you to the nearest place to pitch a tent. Alternatively, the Green Heart is also dotted with hotels.

Hoge Veluwe National Park

A beautiful stretch of land in the east of the country, the Hoge Veluwe park is more known for it’s magnificent pine forests and heaths than for the canals that dominate the rest of the country. The town of Apeldoorn is a couple of kilometres away and makes an excellent base to see the very gently rolling hills (the highest point is 110 metres). To travel to Apeldoorn from the west, use fromatob.co.uk/train to find an easy way to carry you and your bicycle to your destination.

The Dutch Coast

There is hardly anyone living in Holland who doesn’t regularly travel to the sea to attempt to catch some sun. The weather can be changeable, but there is something charming about the lengthy coastline, which hosts a number of towns aimed at attracting tourists. The most popular of these is Scheveningen, and at any time of year will be full of visitors, but you can travel a couple of kilometres down the coast to find a part of the beach to call your own.

Cycling Through the Netherlands Read More »

Five Museums You Must Visit in Europe

1 Comment / July 21, 2012

1) Tate Modern, London

A former power station located on the banks of the Thames river, the Tate Modern is one of the largest collections of modern and contemporary art in the world today. If you’re staying in London for more than a few days, this is well worth a visit, as even someone who knows little about art can easily spend half a day in here, marvelling at the works on display. Art from Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol and many other famous artists make the Tate Modern an unmissable part of your trip.

2) Pergamon Museum, Berlin

The Pergamon Museum, on Berlin’s museum island in the centre of the city, is a breathtaking experience, featuring among other things, an entire reconstruction of the Pergamon Altar, made with the original stones from south-eastern Turkey. The Ishtar gate has also been reconstructed, and many hundreds of sculptures and other pieces of ancient art surround you at this amazing museum.

3) The Nationalmuseet, Copenhagen

A home to 14,000 years of Scandinavian history, the National Museum of Denmark is particularly concerned with the history of the Vikings and the first reindeer hunters who colonised the land. There are also exhibits of ancient items from South America and from Mesopotamia. To travel to your next destination by car, contact http://www.erento.co.uk.

4) The Vatican Museums

The Roman Catholic church has for centuries been collecting classical sculptures and paintings and putting them on display at the Vatican. Consisting of 54 galleries in total, you’ll see the works of Da Vinci, Raphael, Caravaggio and many others, before finally entering the world-renowned Sistine Chapel, with it’s spectacular frescos, including the ‘Last Judgement’ which took 5 years for Michelangelo to complete.

5) Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

Founded in 1800, this museum features many of the best works of the Dutch ‘golden age’ of painting. Pieces from Rembrandt, Vermeer and Steen will have you captivated, and after that it’s a short journey across the city to see the quite different art of Van Gogh, showing you that the Dutch have certainly given a lot to the world of art over the centuries.

Five Museums You Must Visit in Europe Read More »

British Isles Itinerary

3 Comments / July 10, 2012

A Good Starting Point for Planning Your British Isles Itinerary

This summary of the itinerary for my recent 18 day trip through the British Isles will, hopefully, help jumpstart your own trip planning process. I’ve just completed a detailed series of postings featuring each city I visited, including where I stayed, how I got there and what I saw at each stop along the way. If you decide to follow this itinerary you’ll get a good overview of England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, while keeping the travel times each day to a minimum. For me, getting there is half the fun, so I love riding the trains and buses through the countryside from one town to the next. This is often a great way to meet people and it’s wonderful to be able to leave the driving to someone else when you’re on vacation. If you’re traveling in a group of two or more, however, it may be more economical to rent a car, but remember, driving a car with manual transmission on the opposite side of those narrow roads is not for the faint of heart!

Customize to Fit Your Own Schedule

A word of caution…as a solo, budget traveler, I like to squeeze as much as I can into my trips, so this pace may be a bit fast for some. If that’s the case or if you don’t have three weeks, you can use any portion of this schedule and tailor it to fit your own timetable. One possibility, for example, would be to separate it into two trips, the first just concentrating on England, Wales and Scotland and the second just on Ireland. Another suggestion would be to do England and Wales in one trip and Scotland and Ireland in another. By dividing the trip in this manner you would have time to spend two nights in some of the major cities like London, Edinburgh and Dublin and at major scenic destinations like the Cliffs of Moher and the Ring of Kerry in Ireland.

City by City Itinerary

As you can see from a quick look at the list below, you will be traveling to some of the most famous and interesting destinations in the world…and getting from one place to the next will take you through some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet. Here goes!

1) London, England

-arrived by plane from SFO

2) Bath, England

-by train, 1 hour 45 minutes

3) Cardiff, Wales

-by train, 1 hour

4) Shrewsbury, England

-by train via Swansea, 8 hours

-scenic Heart of Wales train journey

5) Conwy, Wales

-by train, 2 hours 30 minutes

6) York, England

-by train, 5 hours

7) Edinburgh, Scotland

-by train, 2 hours 30 minutes

8) Inverness, Scotland

-by train, 4 hours

-scenic Highlands train journey through Cairngorm Mountains

-LochNess

9) Glasgow, Scotland

-by train, 4 hours

10) Belfast, Northern Ireland

-by train and ferry, 6 hours

11) Londonderry, Northern Ireland

-by train, 2 hours

12) Sligo, Ireland

-by bus, 2 hours 30 minutes

13) Galway, Ireland

-by bus, 2 hours 30 minutes

-Clifden and Connemara

14) Limerick, Ireland

-by train, 2 hours

-Cliffs of Moher

15) Tralee, Ireland

-by bus, 2 hours

-Dingle Town

16) Killarney, Ireland

-by bus, 1 hour

-Ring of Kerry

17) Cork, Ireland

-by bus, 1 hour 30 minutes

-Blarney Castle

18) Dublin, Ireland

-by bus, 4 hours 15 minutes

Summary of Expenses

Airfare: (San Francisco to London and Dublin to San Francisco) $807.00

Land Transportation: (trains and buses) $613.00

Lodging: $1,327.00 (average $74.00 per night)

Food: $144.00 (doesn’t include breakfast which came with most hotels)

Incidentals (including entrance fees): $73.00

Total Expenses: $2,964.00

Las Vegas or Europe?

Depending on what part of the country you’re coming from, a round trip plane ticket to Las Vegas can cost anywhere from $200 to $500. For just a few hundred more you could fly to the British Isles and see something new and exciting. Remember, either way you still have to eat and sleep, so the expenses once you get to either destination will be similar. The choice was a no-brainer for me! Considering all the fantastic things I saw, the wonderful people I met and the awesome accommodations I had on my nearly three week trek through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland, doing all this for less than $3,000 was a great value for this budget traveler. Be sure to check out the other articles in this series for more details on planning your trip to the British Isles. Tally Ho and Cherrio!

British Isles Itinerary Read More »

Dublin, Ireland

2 Comments / June 29, 2012

Dublin, Ireland…Journey’s End

It was inevitable that my two and a half week trek through England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland would have to come to an end, so what better place to wind it up than Dublin! For many travelers, Dublin is a dream destination to be experienced at least once during a lifetime. Located on the east coast of Ireland where the River Liffey flows into the Irish Sea separating England from Ireland, Dublin is the capital of the Republic of Ireland and also its most populous city.

The Custom House Across the River Liffey, Dublin

The word ‘Dublin’ means ‘black pool’ and humans have been known to inhabit the area since prehistoric times. The first recorded accounts of life in Dublin date back to 140 AD and as the centuries rolled by, the events that transpired in this fascinating city would not only secure its place in history, but also ensure its role as a major player on the 21^st Century world stage. Today, Dublin is the center of culture, finance and education in Ireland, as well as being its seat of government. So, let’s go together now on a whirlwind, walking tour of Dublin, Ireland.

Points of Interest North of the River Liffey

O’Connell Street

The River Liffey divides Dublin into two sectors, known as the Northside and the Southside, and is traversed along its course by a number of interesting bridges, from the ultramodern Samuel Beckett Bridge opened in 2009 to the historic Mellows Bridge constructed in 1764. The streets that run alongside the river on each side are divided into Quays that extend between each bridge. The centrally located O’Connell Bridge is a good starting point for a walking tour of Dublin. Crossing over to the Northside sets you on a path down this wide boulevard lined with shops, restaurants, pubs and a number of important sights. One of the most noticeable is the Millennium Spire completed in 2003. Also known as the Spire of Dublin or the Monument of Light, the location of this modern, 400 foot, stainless steel needle next to the 200 year old General Post Office typifies the juxtaposition of old and new throughout Dublin.

The Garden of Remembrance

Dublin figured prominently during the Irish War of Independence and a little farther north on O’Connell Street is Parnell Square and the Garden of Remembrance. The garden was opened in 1966 and is dedicated to the memory of ‘all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom’. Lost in my own thoughts, I paused for a moment in this peaceful, outdoor sanctuary, joining the other tourists and Dubliners who were gathered there in silent reflection.

Potpourri of Culture

Those who appreciate Irish literature will want to continue on to the Dublin Writers Museum and the James Joyce Cultural Centre. With a little sleuthing the original location of 7 Eccles Street featured in Joyce’s Ulysses can still be found. Continuing on the Northside, but east of O’Conner Street, is the Custom House built in the 1780s and undoubtedly Dublin’s greatest contribution to the world of architecture. Its impressive dome and columns are actually best viewed from across the river looking northward. Heading westward now, a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery will delight aficionados of Irish whiskey and you can even wet your whistle with a free drink at the end of the tour. Remember, all of these sights are easily accessible on foot and having gotten to this point, visitors can now take their pick of interesting bridges to cross back over to the Southside.

The Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, Ireland

Points of Interest South of the River Liffey

Guinness Brewery

For most visitors to Dublin, the best known sights are likely to be located south of the River Liffey. Our walking tour has thus far taken us on a counter-clockwise sweep of the city. We are now at the west end of the Southside of Dublin near Heuston Station, built in 1846 and still one of Ireland’s main railway stations. The nearby Kilmainham Gaol where many of the Irish nationalist leaders were incarcerated was built as a prison in 1796 and is now open to the public as a museum. Continuing eastward after exploring this sobering landmark, a visit to the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse dating back to 1759 will get your Irish mojo back on track.

Medieval Dublin

The Vikings, mostly from Denmark, settled in Dublin in the 9^th century and retained control until the Norman Invasion of 1169. Once England assumed power in the region it operated from the Dublin Castle which dates back to 1204. The Record Tower is the only surviving tower and dates back to 1228. History buffs will also want to see St. Audden’s Gate (1275) and the old city walls in the Viking Medieval Area, all in the vicinity of the castle.

The Cathedral District

Next up, in the appropriately named Cathedral District you will come to the historic Christ Church Cathedral founded around 1030 AD. If you time it just right, you may get to hear the well-known choir, the magnificent organ and the pealing of the 19 tower bells, all of which carry on the musical tradition for which this church is known. Just a little farther south is Ireland’s largest cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, dating back to 1191, which contains the grave of writer Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels. The choir at St. Patrick’s Cathedral provided many of the voices for the first public performance of Handel’s Messiah which took place in Dublin in 1742.

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland — St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland

Trinity College

Perhaps one of the most famous universities in the world, Trinity College is located literally in the heart of Dublin. Founded in 1592 during the rein of Queen Elizabeth I, its impressive list of graduates includes such literary notables as Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, Jonathon Swift and Bram Stoker of Dracula fame. The library at Trinity College contains the famous Book of Kells, a lavishly illustrated manuscript of The Four Gospels of the New Testament created by Celtic monks sometime before 800 AD. After a stroll through the perfectly manicured quads which are lined with architecturally classic buildings you’ll see why Trinity College is considered one of the most beautiful campuses in the world.

Temple Bar

South of the college is a peaceful park known as St. Stephen’s Green where you can take a breather after visiting the adjacent shopping centers. The historic display of Georgian architecture surrounding nearby Merrion Square is also worth a peek. After visiting the National History Museum and National Gallery next to Merrion Square you can cool your heels at one of the many pubs in the Temple Bar area. With its cobblestone streets and period buildings, this bustling district running alongside the River Liffey will give you a taste of ancient Dublin. You can also enjoy a taste of beer or whiskey as you enjoy they vibrant nightlife in this popular tourist destination.

Tips for Planning Your Trip

Dublin as a Gateway City

Not only is Dublin a beautiful and historic city with lots of great hotels, restaurants and pubs, but it also has convenient access to the modern Dublin Airport 6 miles north of the city as well as easy access to both bus and rail lines. With its central location and the many airlines that service its airport, Dublin should be considered as a potential gateway city for any trip to the British Isles or the European continent. Completing the last leg of my journey, I arrived around noon on a weekday in early June after a 4 hour bus ride from Cork (on my favorite Bus Eireann) with the ticket costing about $18. After waiting out a brief downpour, I walked from the bus station, across the river to my hotel with a little help from several friendly police officers (referred to as Garda in Ireland) who were glad to assist me with directions. The friendliness of the Irish people simply cannot be overstated.

The Samuel Beckett Bridge and the Convention Centre, Dublin

The Drury Court Hotel

I’d made a reservation at the Drury Court Hotel near the Temple Bar area before leaving on my trip and for the equivalent of $98 I had a nice room in a great location. It’s worth pointing out once again that the only reservations I make ahead of time are for the first and last nights of my trip, since these are the only nights I know for sure where I will be. Interestingly, these are often the most expensive nights of my trip and for the most part just walking in on arrival will get you a better value for your money, especially during the off-season. When my visit had finally come to an end I was able to catch an Airlink bus near my hotel going directly to the Dublin Airport for $8.50. All that was left now was the long flight home and a lot of wonderful memories. Be sure to return for my next posting where I will recap my itinerary which you can tailor to meet your own needs for your trip through the British Isles.

Dublin, Ireland Read More »

John Rowe