John Rowe

Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast, Cork, Ireland

The Place to Stay in Cork

          Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast is the perfect place to stay during your visit to Cork, Ireland.  As you saw in our previous article, Cork is a city you will not want to miss on your trip through the Emerald Isle.  Not only is it a beautiful city in its own right, but it’s also the gateway to Blarney Castle where you can experience some of the history of Ireland and, of course, kiss the Blarney Stone, thereby acquiring the gift of Irish gab!  I spotted Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast soon after arriving at the bus station and was delighted to learn that they had a room available for me.

Creedon's Bed and Breakfast, Cork, Ireland
Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast, Cork, Ireland

A Great Location

Located in the heart of town above one of Cork’s oldest pubs (The Welcome Inn), Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast is just a short walk from restaurants, shopping, and most of the major tourist attractions, not to mention its convenient proximity to all manner of transportation.  The bus station is literally across the street and the train station is but a ten minute walk from Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast.  There is also easy access to shuttle service to the Cork airport, which is just a ten minute drive away.  Within minutes of checking in I was on a local bus headed for an afternoon of exploring Blarney Castle and in the evening I had only to step outside the door to begin my walking tour of Cork.

Room at Creedon's Bed and Breakfast, Cork, Ireland
Room at Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast, Cork, Ireland

Friendly Atmosphere

Owners Danny and Annette Creedon will greet you like family and help you get oriented to the city of Cork and the surrounding area.  They have five rooms available and all have en suite bathrooms, television and WiFi connectivity.  I paid $57 for a wonderful, quiet room that had a nice view of the city and for a small amount more I could have added a full Irish breakfast.  Unfortunately, I had to catch an early bus the next morning for Dublin…the last stop on my trek through Ireland.  Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast met all of my criteria for an awesome accommodation.  It was clean, safe, comfortable, well located, operated by a friendly, helpful staff and a good value.  I thoroughly enjoyed meeting Danny and Annette and experiencing the Irish hospitality that comes so naturally to them.  Take it from me…Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast is where you will want to stay on your next visit to Cork, Ireland.

View from Creedon's Bed and Breakfast with Bus Station at Far Left
View from Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast with Bus Station at Far Left

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Cork, Ireland

History, Culture and Architectural Splendor

The city of Cork in southern Ireland is a major seaport and the third most populous city in Ireland.  The name ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word meaning marsh and the city center is actually located on an island where the River Lee divides into two channels before converging again to flow to the sea.  From the time it was founded by Saint Finbarr in the 6th century, Cork has been at the center of Irish history in one fashion or another.  It served as a Viking trading post beginning around 920 AD, had its population decimated by the Black Death plague in 1349, played a role in the English War of the Roses in 1491 and was a major player in the War of Independence in the early 20th century.  Recent history is reflected in the beautiful churches and cathedrals that grace the city, including the famous neo-Gothic Saint Fin Barre’s (Protestant) and St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedrals.  Christ Church in the Old Town and St. Anne’s Church, which houses the Bells of Shandon in its clock tower, round out the architectural splendor on display at the houses of worship in Cork.

The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland
The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland

Elizabeth Fort was built as a fortification outside the city walls in 1601.  While parts of the fort are now used as a police station, other areas are accessible to tourists, as are some of the original town walls.  Culture abounds in Cork, as attested by the Crawford Art Gallery, the ultra modern Cork Opera House and the beautiful University College Cork, built in 1845, which straddles the south channel of the River Lee.  While all of these sites are easily accessible on foot, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral and the University College Cork located near one another on the south side of the city are particularly worth the time and effort to see.

University College, Cork, Ireland
University College, Cork, Ireland

Kissing the Blarney Stone

No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone.  Located high up in the tower of the 600 year old Blarney Castle just outside of Cork, the Blarney Stone can only be kissed while lying on your back and being suspended partially upside down…and trusting the guide to hold you!  It really isn’t as scary as it sounds and once done, the gift of Irish gab is supposedly conferred upon the ‘kisser’.  The short bus ride from the Cork city center to the castle cost about $9 for the round trip and the entrance fee to the castle grounds was about $15.

Blarney Castle Near Cork, Ireland
Blarney Castle Near Cork, Ireland

The Blarney Castle and Gardens are actually a large, active estate located on the River Martin and the Blarney River.  Visitors can also tour the elegant Blarney House built in 1874 where the current baronet and his family actually live.  Put on your hiking shoes as you take a self guided tour of the gardens, the castle with its dungeons and caves and the rock close with its waterfalls, Druid’s Cave and Witch’s Stone.  One could spend hours wandering the grounds and exploring the many points of interest to be found in this magical place.  Trust me!  You won’t want to miss it.  Just before I left I’m almost certain I saw several Leprechauns, but then maybe I’m just full of Blarney.

Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland
Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland

The Friendly Corkonians

The hour and a half bus ride from Killarney to Cork cost about $24 and took us through some beautiful sights and scenery, including the market town of Macroom.  Corkonians are a very friendly lot and I enjoyed chatting with a number of them during my wanderings about the city.  It’s interesting to note that they are sometimes referred to as ‘The Rebels’ for their early disavowal of British domination during the long struggle for Irish independence.  I was very fortunate to find a wonderful place to stay while I was in Cork and encourage you to return for my full report on Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast.  It goes without saying that with its many cultural and architectural treasures in addition to the nearby Blarney Castle, Cork is an essential stop on any trek through Ireland.

Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, Ireland
Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral, Cork, Ireland

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Leen’s Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

A Warm Welcome

Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland was one of the nicest places I stayed during my trip through the British Isles.  I arrived there at 9:30 AM by bus from Tralee in order to catch the 10 AM Ring of Kerry tour bus and the proprietors could not have been more accommodating.  They gave me a warm welcome and allowed me to check in early so that I could freshen up and leave my main pack before setting out on the tour.  I had arranged both the room and the tour bus the day before at the Tralee Tourist Office for a $7 booking fee.  My accommodations at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast included a nice room with private bath and a wonderful full Irish Breakfast, all for $54, an excellent value for the price.

Leen's Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland
Leen’s Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

A Great Location

Leen’s Bed and Breakfast is located in a nice, quiet residential area within easy walking distance of most of the major attractions in Killarney.  There are four bedrooms available, including single, twin, double and triple accommodations and each room has an en suite bathroom.  Each room also has television, wireless internet connectivity and tea and coffee tray.  Leen’s can also accommodate groups at a reduced rate and as an added benefit for those traveling by rental car, private parking is available.

Bedroom at Leen's Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland
Bedroom at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

All the Comforts of Home

My bedroom at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast was bright, clean, comfortable and modern and had all the comforts of home.  It also had a nice window that looked out on the pleasant, peaceful surrounding neighborhood.  The proprietor, Siobhan Leen, prepared a wonderful full Irish breakfast which I thoroughly enjoyed in the cheery breakfast room before heading off to catch the bus to Cork the next morning.  Leen’s Bed and Breakfast had all the qualities I look for and more when considering a place to stay.  It was clean, comfortable, safe, well located and operated by a friendly, helpful staff in addition to being a good value.  I’m quite sure you will enjoy Leen’s Bed and Breakfast as much as I did on your next visit to Killarney, Ireland.

Breakfast Room at Leen's Bed and Breakfast
Breakfast Room at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast

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The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry

A tour of the Ring of Kerry, located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, has become an almost mandatory pilgrimage for every visitor to Ireland.  A bus tour is a great way to see the many beautiful sights on this heavily trafficked trail and usually takes about six hours to complete.  Because of the difficulty buses have passing one another on some of the narrow roads, they all travel in a counterclockwise direction along the coast.  I had a great experience with O’Connor Auto Tours which provided an entertaining (and very skilled) bus driver who regaled us with his gift of Irish gab and gave us plenty of time at each stop.  The tour cost about $32, not including lunch, and I’m quite sure you’ll be glad you left the driving to them rather than trying to navigate the narrow, winding roads in a rental car.

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

There was an additional fee for several special points of interest along the way, one of the most interesting of which was the sheepdog herding demonstration.  The tour took us through Killorglin, Caherciveen, Waterville, Sneem, Molls Gap and Ladies’ View in addition to a visit to the Kerry Bog Village Museum in Glenbeigh before returning to Killarney.  One of the most enjoyable things about traveling is the people you meet along the way, like the nice folks who were on the tour bus with me.  So, here’s a ‘hello’ to Luca and Elena from Italy, Brian from Philadelphia and the two lovely young ladies from Victoria, British Columbia.

The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland
The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland

Killarney 

Located in southwestern Ireland, Killarney has an ancient history and the castles, abbeys and cathedrals to prove it.  With its trout filled lakes, mountain crags and oak studded woodlands, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland.  Killarney is not just a great jumping off place for the Ring of Kerry, but a worthy destination in its own right!  After returning from the Ring of Kerry tour I walked around the old town with its colorful shops, pubs and restaurants, visited the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral and enjoyed seeing some of the beautifully manicured gardens that surround many of the lovely homes that line the streets.

Killarney National Park, Ireland
Killarney National Park, Ireland

I always like to immerse myself in local events when I travel and it just happened that there was an international gathering of bikers taking place at the Gleneagle Hotel while I was in Killarney.  I had fun mingling with the crowds, enjoying the free entertainment and drooling over the beautiful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that had come from all over the world.  My walk skirted the Killarney National Park where I got a glimpse of Muckross Abbey, but unfortunately I missed some of the most well known sites in Killarney, including Ross Castle, Muckross House and the nearby Torc Waterfall, which will have to wait until my next trip to Ireland.  There just was not enough time to see everything, giving me a good excuse to return to Killarney some day.

Bikers in Killarney, Ireland
Bikers in Killarney, Ireland

Trek through Ireland Drawing to a Close

With my trek through Ireland winding down to the last few days before I would have to fly home, I couldn’t imagine that there would still be so much more waiting for me to see!  It seemed that each place I visited outdid the ones that came before and the town of Killarney and the nearby Ring of Kerry were no exception!  Fortunately, I’d made reservations before I left Tralee for a room at a bed and breakfast as well as a seat on the tour bus to the Ring of Kerry.  The 40 minute bus ride from Tralee to Killarney cost about $12 and the driver was kind enough to make a special stop near Leen’s Bed and Breakfast where I was given a warm welcome.  I was able to check into my room early so that I could leave my pack and be ready for the tour bus that picked me up out front at 10 AM.  Be sure to return for our full report on Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland…a wonderful place to stay!

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

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St. John's Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens

Tralee, Ireland and the Dingle Peninsula

The Rose of Tralee

Written in the nineteenth century, ‘The Rose of Tralee’ is a famous Irish ballad about a woman who was ‘lovely and fair’, a description that has come to embody the features of all the beautiful young colleens in Ireland.  Every year young ladies from Irish communities throughout the world compete for the distinction of being selected ‘The Rose’, culminating in the crowning of the winner at the Rose of Tralee Festival held here in August.  Because of its familiar name, Tralee was one of the places I was anxious to visit on my trek through Ireland.  For a $25 ticket I took the two hour ride from Limerick on my favorite Bus Eireann, arriving in Tralee around noon on a Saturday in early June.  But once again, the town would have to wait, so that I could catch the bus out to see the Dingle Peninsula first.

St. John's Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens
St. John’s Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens

The Dingle Peninsula and Dingle Town

As a popular tourist destination the Dingle Peninsula is catching up with the Iveragh Peninsula, its next door neighbor to the south, which boasts the famous Ring of Kerry.  Also located in County Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula is named for Dingle Town which is a picturesque little village on the Dingle River where it flows into a sheltered harbor on the Atlantic Coast.  While Dingle Town has a long history as a fishing port and still has traces of the town walls that once surrounded it, today’s visitors will be particularly impressed with the narrow, hilly streets lined with brightly painted shops, pubs and houses.  A short walk up the hill behind the town will reward you with a great view of the surrounding countryside and the harbor below which is teeming with fishing boats.  You can take a boat ride out to the mouth of the Dingle Harbor where Fungie the world famous bottlenose dolphin has greeted visitors since 1984 and perhaps even take a swim with him.  If time permits you can also take the scenic drive out towards Dunmore Head, the western most point in Ireland.  The round trip bus fare from Tralee to Dingle Town cost about $22 and took an hour each way.  But you’ll be wishing it took longer so you’d have more time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery along the way.

Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland
Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland

Tralee

The weather was somewhat dreary when I got back to Tralee in the early evening to set out on my walking tour of this pretty little town.  In addition to being a great jumping off place for the Dingle Peninsula (and the Ring of Kerry, as well), Tralee was full of friendly people and interesting things to see.  It was quite pleasant to walk along the wide streets lined with Georgian edifices and to go window shopping on The Mall and to stroll through the Town Square filled with the Irish music flowing from the nearby pubs.  Along the way I visited St. John’s Catholic Church and the Pikeman Memorial which commemorates the 1798 Irish Rebellion.  Rounding out the evening I took the long walk along the ship canal to check out the locks and to see the Blennerville Windmill, the oldest one in Ireland still in operation.  One of the most beautiful spots in Tralee is the town park which is filled with the town’s namesake roses and many other colorful flowers.  Right across from the town park is the Kerry County Museum which has the Tralee Tourist Office in the basement.  I knew that timing would be critical on the next day of my trip so the helpful staff there booked my accommodations in Killarney and got me a seat on the Ring of Kerry tour bus a day in advance.

The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill
The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill

Finnegan’s Hostel

After checking several hotels on my short walk from the bus station into town (and finding them either full or too expensive!) I happened upon Finnegan’s Hostel right in the heart of Tralee.  With a name like Finnegan’s it couldn’t get much more Irish and this was without a doubt the best bargain on my trip to Ireland!  For $35 I got a great room with private bath and breakfast included!  While it is more like a budget bed and breakfast it does have dormitory rooms in addition to twin and double rooms.  There are 40 beds in all and each room has an en suite bathroom.  Located right across from the rose gardens in the town park this Georgian town house was completed in 1826 and each room is named after a famous Irish author.  Finnegan’s Hostel was clean, safe, comfortable, a good value and conveniently located…all criteria that must be met to make it onto our list of Awesome Accommodations.  The friendly staff provided a lot of good information about what to see in Tralee and how to get out to Dingle Town.  The facility also features bike rental, laundry service and an elegant restaurant in the cellar.  This would be a great place for group accommodations, but regardless of your travel needs, this is where you will want to stay during your visit to Tralee.

Finnegan's Hostel, Tralee, Ireland
Finnegan’s Hostel, Tralee, Ireland

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The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

Limerick, Ireland and the Cliffs of Moher

‘There Was a Young Maid from Nantucket’

Every schoolboy throughout the English speaking world knows a naughty Limerick, that five line bit of doggerel that has entertained folks since the first ones were penned by the poets of Croom, County Limerick, Ireland back in the 1700s.  Since then, ‘poets’ from Lewis Carroll to Ogden Nash to Mark Twain have tried their hand at putting together a witty verse that will flow off the tongue as only an Irish lyric can.  As a lifelong student of the written word, I was thrilled to be heading to another important landmark on the trail featuring the history of Irish literature.  I took the two hour train ride from Galway to Limerick by way of Ennis for the equivalent of $14, arriving around noon on a Friday.  There was a lot to see in the city of Limerick, but my first objective was to catch the bus out to the Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

The Cliffs of Moher

One of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher rise 702 feet above the rugged Atlantic Coast in County Clare.  From this vantage point you can see all the way to the Aran Islands, Galway Bay and Connemara and you can also get a glimpse of some of the twenty species of sea birds that nest on the cliffs.  These spectacular shale and sandstone cliffs are named after the old fort ‘Mothar’ that was destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars.  Built in 1835, O’Brien’s Tower is now the highest point in the park and affords visitors a stunning view of the cliffs and surrounding area.  Built into the side of a hill and opened in 2007, the visitor center is well worth the $8.50 entrance fee.  The cliffs are about a one and a half hour bus or car ride from either Galway or Limerick.  While I took the round trip bus ride from Limerick costing $32, it might make more sense for travelers with a rental car to go from Galway to the cliffs and then on to Limerick or vice versa.  Either way, you will not want to miss this impressive natural attraction that draws nearly one million visitors each year.

The Visitor Center at the Cliffs of Moher
The Visitor Center at the Cliffs of Moher

Limerick

Originating as a Viking settlement in 812, Limerick straddles the River Shannon near the Atlantic coast of Ireland.  Although it is the third largest city in Ireland, it is fairly easy to walk to the main points of interest and along the way you will enjoy taking in the magnificent 18th century Georgian architecture that many of the buildings feature.  On my late afternoon tour I visited St. John’s Castle dating back to 1212 and St. Mary’s Cathedral dating back to 1168, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in Ireland.  The newer St. John’s Church boasts Ireland’s tallest spire at 308 feet.  The Treaty Stone commemorates the Treaty of Limerick signed after the second Siege of Limerick in 1691 which ended the war when the Jacobites surrendered to the Orangemen, supporters of King William III of Orange.  Nearby, the famous Milk Market has been in operation since 1852 and still features produce from local farmers and other tradesmen.  Enjoying the vibrant nightlife of Limerick will round out your tour and should include a visit to WJ South’s pub, well known in local literary circles.

St. John's Castle, Limerick, Ireland
St. John’s Castle, Limerick, Ireland

The Railway Hotel

If you’re looking for a great place to stay right in the heart of Limerick, check out the Railway Hotel.  It’s just a few minutes walk from the train and bus stations and I was fortunate to get a room there shortly after arriving at the Limerick railway station (Colby Station).  This thirty room hotel was originally built in 1871 as a ‘coaching inn’ and is now a family run operation.  The staff was very friendly and helpful and as soon as you enter the front door you will find that the ambience is in keeping with a warm and welcoming inn.  The convenient restaurant and pub located on the main floor seem to be quite popular with the local folks.  I got a nice room with private bath and a delicious full Irish breakfast for $58…a real bargain!  The facility was clean, safe, comfortable, well-located and a good value for the money.  The Railway Hotel met all my criteria for an excellent place to stay and I can definitely recommend it to you for your next visit to Limerick, Ireland.

The Railway Hotel, Limerick, Ireland
The Railway Hotel, Limerick, Ireland

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