Next Stop, Edinburgh

          The two and a half hour train ride from York, England heading north to Edinburgh, Scotland took us through the cities of Durham and Newcastle and along the northeast coast of England, with the ticket costing about $42.  The passing panorama of the countryside and the seaside from my window seat was breathtaking, but even the fleeting view of the beautiful Durham Cathedral and Castle couldn’t take my mind off the destination ahead.  At 12 Noon the train arrived in Edinburgh and I stepped right out into the center of the capital of Scotland and into the homeland of my father’s family.  I had the rest of the day and evening to explore one of the most beautiful cities in the world and locate the childhood homes of each of my grandparents.

The Princes Street Gardens

          Even before looking for a place to stay, I wanted to see the superintendent’s ‘lodge’ in the Princes Street Gardens where my grandfather had lived as a child.  His father (my great grandfather) was the superintendent of the gardens around the turn of the last century and in 1903 helped design and build the famous floral clock that’s still telling time to the delight of visitors right in the heart of Edinburgh.  The gardens were created in 1820 after the polluted waters of Nor Loch were drained, leaving a valley between Princes Street and the old town.  The Princes Street Gardens are just a short walk from the train station and within minutes I located the cottage, recognizing it from a picture that I had of my grandfather and his brother standing out in front as children.  This charming ‘wee hoose ‘mang the heather’ looks directly up at the imposing Edinburgh Castle towering over the other end of the gardens.  It truly was an exhilarating experience to return to my roots.

Getting Oriented in Edinburgh

          The City of Edinburgh is located just inland from the Firth of Forth (or estuary of the River Forth) which empties into the North Sea with port access to this wide river at Leith and Rosyth.  The massive nearby Firth of Forth Bridge was an engineering marvel at the time it was completed in 1890 and is still the second longest bridge of its kind in the world.  Back to Edinburgh…Princes Street, named to commemorate King George III’s two oldest sons, is the main thoroughfare in the city and is home to many great hotels and top tier shopping establishments which line the north side of the street.  The train station, visitor center and several significant monuments, such as the massive, gothic Scott Monument, commemorating Scottish author Sir Walter Scott, are located along the south side of Princes Street.  Looking south across the Princes Street Gardens in the valley below visitors are treated to a panoramic view of the old town and Edinburgh Castle.

The Frederick House Hotel

          After a quick stop at the visitor center I headed across Princes Street looking for a place to stay.  Edinburgh is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world and finding a hotel for a reasonable price there can be daunting.  Everyplace I tried was fully booked until I came upon the Frederick House Hotel on a side avenue off the north side of Princes Street, just opposite the gardens.  The minute I walked in I knew I was in a first class hotel.  I was greeted by several friendly staff members who let me know that they had a room available for $113, including a full breakfast at the Café Rouge across the street.  This was the most I paid for a hotel on this trip, but it was well worth it and the location could not have been more convenient.  The room was huge and beautifully appointed and the private bath was elegant.  If you are looking for a great place to stay in Edinburgh, Scotland, I can highly recommend the Frederick House Hotel.

The Royal Mile

          While Edinburgh is a hilly city, it is easily walkable for the reasonably fit visitor.  With map in hand, I set out on a four hour walking tour starting at the high point of Edinburgh Castle and continuing east down High Street, also known as the Royal Mile because it ends at Holyrood Palace.  Along the way are many interesting sights including museums, pubs and well preserved historic buildings.  St. Giles Cathedral, located about one third of the way down The Royal Mile, dates back to the 14^th century and is considered the ‘Mother Church of Presbyterianism’.  Be sure to take a side trip going south on the elevated street known as George IV Bridge to visit the statue of Greyfriars Bobby.  This loyal Skye Terrier is said to have spent his last 14 years sitting by his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard until he himself died in 1872.  At the bottom of the Royal Mile is the new, ultra modern Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace.  The Palace of Holyrood House is best known as the home of Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587).  Holyrood Park boasts many hiking trails and if you still have enough energy left, climb the trail up the Salisbury Crags for a great view of the entire area.

The Oak Inn Pub in Corstorphine

          Having visited my grandfather’s childhood home earlier in the day, it was now time to find my grandmother’s home, which I knew to be a pub outside of Edinburgh.  In the late afternoon I caught the bus for Corstorphine, a suburb of Edinburgh, and asked the driver if he knew of the Oak Inn.  He replied, “Aye, Laddie, we’ll be goin’ right past it and I’ll let you know when to get off!”  It turns out it was located right on St. Johns Road, the main thoroughfare heading into Edinburgh, and I would have easily recognized it from pictures I’d seen.  My grandmother’s parents ran the Oak Inn as a pub and road house at the turn of the last century before immigrating to the United States.  The current proprietors run a popular modern pub there now and were happy to show me around when I explained my connection to the inn.  It was quite an experience to imagine what the place must have been like back when my grandmother played around there as a little girl.  I ordered a delicious homemade steak pie and a cold glass of beer at the Oak Inn, before walking back to Edinburgh on a beautiful May evening.  Be sure to check out the Oak Inn in Corstorphine if you want to experience a genuine Scottish pub and mingle with the friendly locals.