‘There Was a Young Maid from Nantucket’
Every schoolboy throughout the English speaking world knows a naughty Limerick, that five line bit of doggerel that has entertained folks since the first ones were penned by the poets of Croom, County Limerick, Ireland back in the 1700s. Since then, ‘poets’ from Lewis Carroll to Ogden Nash to Mark Twain have tried their hand at putting together a witty verse that will flow off the tongue as only an Irish lyric can. As a lifelong student of the written word, I was thrilled to be heading to another important landmark on the trail featuring the history of Irish literature. I took the two hour train ride from Galway to Limerick by way of Ennis for the equivalent of $14, arriving around noon on a Friday. There was a lot to see in the city of Limerick, but my first objective was to catch the bus out to the Cliffs of Moher.
The Cliffs of Moher
One of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher rise 702 feet above the rugged Atlantic Coast in County Clare. From this vantage point you can see all the way to the Aran Islands, Galway Bay and Connemara and you can also get a glimpse of some of the twenty species of sea birds that nest on the cliffs. These spectacular shale and sandstone cliffs are named after the old fort ‘Mothar’ that was destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars. Built in 1835, O’Brien’s Tower is now the highest point in the park and affords visitors a stunning view of the cliffs and surrounding area. Built into the side of a hill and opened in 2007, the visitor center is well worth the $8.50 entrance fee. The cliffs are about a one and a half hour bus or car ride from either Galway or Limerick. While I took the round trip bus ride from Limerick costing $32, it might make more sense for travelers with a rental car to go from Galway to the cliffs and then on to Limerick or vice versa. Either way, you will not want to miss this impressive natural attraction that draws nearly one million visitors each year.
Limerick
Originating as a Viking settlement in 812, Limerick straddles the River Shannon near the Atlantic coast of Ireland. Although it is the third largest city in Ireland, it is fairly easy to walk to the main points of interest and along the way you will enjoy taking in the magnificent 18th century Georgian architecture that many of the buildings feature. On my late afternoon tour I visited St. John’s Castle dating back to 1212 and St. Mary’s Cathedral dating back to 1168, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in Ireland. The newer St. John’s Church boasts Ireland’s tallest spire at 308 feet. The Treaty Stone commemorates the Treaty of Limerick signed after the second Siege of Limerick in 1691 which ended the war when the Jacobites surrendered to the Orangemen, supporters of King William III of Orange. Nearby, the famous Milk Market has been in operation since 1852 and still features produce from local farmers and other tradesmen. Enjoying the vibrant nightlife of Limerick will round out your tour and should include a visit to WJ South’s pub, well known in local literary circles.
The Railway Hotel
If you’re looking for a great place to stay right in the heart of Limerick, check out the Railway Hotel. It’s just a few minutes walk from the train and bus stations and I was fortunate to get a room there shortly after arriving at the Limerick railway station (Colby Station). This thirty room hotel was originally built in 1871 as a ‘coaching inn’ and is now a family run operation. The staff was very friendly and helpful and as soon as you enter the front door you will find that the ambience is in keeping with a warm and welcoming inn. The convenient restaurant and pub located on the main floor seem to be quite popular with the local folks. I got a nice room with private bath and a delicious full Irish breakfast for $58…a real bargain! The facility was clean, safe, comfortable, well-located and a good value for the money. The Railway Hotel met all my criteria for an excellent place to stay and I can definitely recommend it to you for your next visit to Limerick, Ireland.
