Luang Prabang, Laos

2 Comments / August 3, 2013

Luang Prabang, Crown Jewel of Laos

Located at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers in the hill country of northern Laos, Luang Prabang is arguably one of the most important tourist destinations in Southeast Asia. With its small, but modern airport this resort city can easily be reached from Vientiane, Hanoi, Bangkok and Siem Reap, but the adventurous traveler will want to arrive by bus from Vientiane. If you choose this route you will be rewarded with a ride through some incredibly beautiful country and will pass through the limestone studded sportsman’s paradise known as Vang Vieng.

After an 11 hour bus ride costing $22, I arrived in Luang Prabang at 8 PM to find the town still bustling with activity. Just a short walk from the bus station into the center of town, I easily found a nice hotel (for $15!–see below) and was surprised to find shops and travel agencies still open. After purchasing a $150 plane ticket to Hanoi, Vietnam on Lao Airlines for the following afternoon I walked around until I finally made the difficult choice of where to eat from among the many outstanding French style restaurants in town.

Resort Atmosphere

My first impression of Luang Prabang was that it was a quaint little resort town and that it had more visitors than I expected for being so far out in the hinterlands. That first evening I encountered as many young backpackers as I did well-heeled tourists out enjoying the pleasant weather and the French provincial setting. With few motor vehicles in the confines of town, the air was clean and fresh and there was a peaceful quiet that was soothing to a weary traveler. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang has retained its timeless charm with a mixture of Buddhist temples and French colonial buildings which line the four main streets located within the confines created by the confluence of the Nam Khan tributary flowing into the mighty Mekong River.

In the Laotian language Luang Prabang literally means ‘royal Buddha image’. Its colorful history dates back many centuries and took it through numerous stages including periods where it was part of an independent kingdom, the subject of surrounding empires, a French protectorate and finally the communist country it has become today following the Pathet Lao takeover in 1975. With the subsequent introduction of capitalism in Laos, Luang Prabang, indeed all of Laos, has made an impressive comeback after many years of depredation and neglect.

A Walking Tour

The signature landmark of Luang Prabang is Mount Phousi, a steep hill which rises about 320 feet above the center of town. While there are temples located throughout the hill, the main attraction is Wat Chom Si with its golden stupa on the summit. For the admission price of $2.50 and a somewhat arduous climb of 350 steps to the top you get a spectacular 360 degree view of the town, rivers and surrounding countryside. Cat lovers, in particular, will not want to miss the hike up Mount Phousi, with lazy felines napping at every landing along the way!

A walk through the main streets of Luang Prabang will take you past many of the beautifully preserved buildings from the French colonial period. Along the way you will see the Haw Kham Royal Palace built in 1904 which is now a museum and the nearby Wat Mai built in the 18^th century, which is the largest temple in town. Other sights include Wat Wisunalat with its huge golden Buddha built in 1512 and Wat Xieng Thong near the confluence of the rivers. And if you are lucky you will have an opportunity to see the daily morning alms procession, where food is donated to the Buddhist monks clad in their brilliant orange robes. Your visit would not be complete without a walk down to the rivers to watch the fishermen and a walk across the Nam Khan River on the old wooden bridge.

Eating and Sleeping

It was a welcome problem to have so many small hotels and guest houses to choose from in Luang Prabang. The first one I walked into on the evening I arrived ended up being a winner and for $15 I got a nice big room with private bath in a quite section of the ThanaBoun Guest House. Located right on one of the main streets close to all the sights and restaurants, this small hotel is a great place to stay. It was clean and safe and the front desk staff members were friendly and helpful. An internet café is conveniently located in the lobby. And the price could not be beat. Southeast Asia is truly the budget traveler’s paradise!

For dinner I found a wonderful, open-air restaurant called The Pizza Luang Prabang right across the street from the guest house. It was located on the main floor of one of the quaint, old colonial buildings and the atmosphere on that balmy evening could not have been more pleasant. For $6.80 I had a delicious pizza and a Beerlao, which is a tasty beer based on locally grown jasmine rice. Many an evening since I visited Luang Prabang I have wished that I could magically transport myself back so that I can try every one of the fabulous restaurants to be found there. This wonderful little town is worth the extra effort it takes to get there and you will not want to miss it on your trip through Southeast Asia.

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Vientiane, Laos

3 Comments / July 11, 2013

A Quiet Capital City

Compared with the capital cities of other countries, Vientiane may seem a little quiet and sleepy to first time visitors, but beneath its placid façade is a vibrant metropolis teeming with friendly inhabitants and interesting sights. Many tourists will arrive at Nong Khai after the 15 hour overnight train ride from Bangkok, Thailand (Train 69), as I did. The cost for a lower berth was about $24.

Arriving at the Nong Khai, Thailand Railway Station on the Laotian Border

Then, for about 64 cents you can purchase a connecting train ticket for the 15 minute ride to Thanaleng by way of the Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River into Laos. You will exit Thai immigration and then purchase a visa on arrival for Laos in Thanaleng for $35. From there I took a minivan into Vientiane with seven other travelers who I met on the train, which cost us each about $3. So, what I thought would be a complicated border crossing turned out to be quite easy and it was fun for those of us traveling on the same train to find our way together. Once in the city, you can easily walk to many of the major sights and the others can be reached by tuk-tuk or on a rented bicycle.

Getting a 'Visa on Arrival' at Thanaleng, Laos — Getting a ‘Visa on Arrival’ at Thanaleng, Laos

Tuk-Tuk Tour

Vientiane lies on the eastern side of the Mekong River across from Thailand which flanks the western bank. As soon as I reached the center of town I found a great little hotel (see below) and then went to the bus station to purchase my ticket to Luang Prabang for the following day. Chores out of the way, I finally had time to get excited about being in a new country for the first time. Most of the important sights can be reached on foot from the central area of Vientiane. The two exceptions are the Victory Gate or Patuxai and the temple complex at Phra That Luang, which are best reached by tuk-tuk. Set in the middle of the wide Lane Zang Avenue, the Victory Gate is an impressive structure reminiscent of the Arch de Triumph in Paris. Although it is made of cement, the form and architectural details make for an interesting, if somewhat imposing structure. Completed in 1968 using U.S. government funds originally meant to build an airport, it features four arches and five towers. For about 40 cents you can purchase a ticket to climb the 158 steps to the top for a spectacular view of the surrounding area, including the nearby Ministry of Justice and the Prime Minister’s office.

Continuing farther out from the city center in a northeasterly direction you will come to the Buddhist temple complex of Phra That Luang. The main building is a spectacular gold leaf structure built in 1556, which is the national symbol of Laos. Surrounding sights include the Golden Reclining Buddha and a number of other beautiful temples. In my opinion, the Victory Gate and the temple complex of Phra That Luang are the two ‘must see’ sights in Vientiane.

Phra That Luang Buddhist Temple, Vientiane, Laos

The River Promenade

Many of the attractions of interest to tourists, including hotels, restaurants and shopping can be found back towards the center of town, along the Mekong River. Several important sights are in this region as well. The Presidential Palace is worth a look, as is the old temple of Wat Si Saket. But for my money, the River Promenade is the place to be for mingling with the locals and just getting the feel of life in Laos.

The Mekong River Promenade with King Chao Anouvong Statue

Especially after dark, the area comes alive with people…couples on a stroll, kids playing soccer, or families picnicking. It’s fun to check out the street vendors peddling their wares and to go window shopping for a restaurant, trying to decide upon one of the many excellent choices. But by about 11 PM they ‘roll up the sidewalks’ in the sleepy city of Vientiane and all becomes quiet once again.

Playful Boys Hamming It Up for the Camera, Vientiane, Laos

Eating and Sleeping

The very first hotel I checked on arriving in the center of town turned out to be a winner. The Mixok Inn (not to be confused with the Mixok Guesthouse) had a nice room with air conditioning, private bath, TV and free Wifi for $19. And that included breakfast! It is just a short walk to all the attractions and activities along the River Promenade, including the night market. The hotel has a tour desk where I was able to arrange a ride to the bus station for the following morning. Free public parking is available nearby and the airport is but a ten minute drive away. The staff members were friendly and helpful and the facility was clean and secure. The Mixok Inn was a bargain and ticked all the boxes on my list of required features for an awesome accommodation.

In the evening I had a wonderful dinner of pizza and Tiger Beer at an outstanding French restaurant, the Cote d’Azur, for a very reasonable $10. The ambiance and open air feel of the restaurant right on the River Promenade made for a very pleasant dining experience. I can highly recommend both the Mixok Inn and the Cote d’Azur if you are looking for a great place to stay and a wonderful place to eat in Vientiane, Laos. Both provide an excellent value for your money.

Pizza and Tiger Beer at the Cote d' Azure Restaurant, Vientiane, Laos — Pizza and Tiger Beer at the Cote d’ Azure Restaurant, Vientiane, Laos

View from the Victory Gate, Vientiane, Laos

Buddhist Temple on the Grounds of Phra That Luang, Vientiane

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Tree Growing from Ta Prohm Temple Ruins at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Intro to Indochina

2 Comments / May 5, 2013

Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia

Having made my way up the Malay Peninsula from Singapore to Bangkok, it was now time to continue my journey into uncharted territory. Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia had long been on my bucket list of must-see destinations, but it was with some trepidation that I contemplated the logistics of traveling through the rugged countryside, crossing multiple borders into communist countries, and arranging suitable transportation and lodging, all the while grappling with several different languages. As I was soon to discover, my concerns were all for naught. I was able to easily navigate my way through some of the most beautiful country on earth, inhabited by some of the friendliest folks I have ever encountered in my travels throughout the world. In upcoming articles we’ll visit the cities of Vientiane and Luang Prabang in Laos; Hanoi, Hoi An and Saigon in Vietnam; and Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia. We’ll also explore two fabulous UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Ha Long Bay and Angkor Wat.

The Charming Colonial City of Luang Prabang, Laos

History and Culture

Historically, Indochina refers to the three countries of Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia on the Southeast Asian peninsula. This region was known as French Indochina during the period when these countries were colonies of France from about 1884 to 1954. The Kingdoms of Laos and Cambodia were granted independence from France in 1949, but Vietnam would have a much longer journey to becoming the country it is today. The Indochina War was largely a conflict between France and the Viet Minh in the north of Vietnam and began in 1946 shortly after the end of World War II. It ended in 1954 with the partition of Vietnam into North and South. Enter the Americans one year later and the rest, as they say, is history! While the peoples of Indochina are quite separate from those of both India and China, the name Indochina can be attributed to the location of this region between these two larger countries. While each of the three countries comprising today’s Indochina is ethnically diverse, the Khmers can be identified as the majority in Cambodia and the Kinh (Viet) in Vietnam. Laos, on the other hand, is a much more diverse conglomeration of many tribes and languages.

Hoa Lo Prison Known as the Hanoi Hilton, Vietnam

Indochina Itinerary

The major sights of Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia can easily be covered by taking a circular route beginning and ending in the gateway city of Bangkok, Thailand. I traveled in a clockwise direction, starting with the overnight train ride from Bangkok to Vientiane, Laos. What I thought would be a complicated border crossing over the Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai into Laos turned out to be quite simple and went exactly according to how it was described in The Man in Seat 61. You can purchase a visa on arrival for Laos there for $35. After an overnight in Vientiane, I took the 11 hour bus ride through the beautiful northern hill country of Laos to the incredibly charming UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang on the Mekong River. To save time and avoid the long, arduous bus ride over the mountains to Hanoi, I took the one hour flight from Luang Prabang to Hanoi the following day on Lao Airlines for $150. Arriving in Vietnam by plane also enables travelers to purchase a visa on arrival rather than applying for a visa in advance which is required at land border crossings. After two nights in Hanoi and a day trip to Ha Long Bay I took the overnight train to the ancient city of Hoi An via Da Nang for $45. Again to save time, I took the one hour flight the following day from Da Nang to Saigon on Vietnam Airlines. After a one day visit to Saigon I took a bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia for $20 and was able to purchase a visa on arrival at the border for $25. The following day I took the five hour bus ride to Siem Reap for $12.00. After two days in Siem Reap with ample time to explore Ankor Wat, I completed the final leg of my circuitous journey by taking the nine and a half hour bus ride back to Bangkok for another $12. Hopefully, these details will be helpful for those planning an independent sojourn through Indochina.

Bargain Hunter’s Paradise

Hurry! These prices won’t last! At the risk of sounding like the proverbial used car salesman, I can’t stress enough that the price for everything from hotels to restaurants to transportation and shopping are incredibly low throughout Indochina, making it a true bargain hunter’s paradise. It’s no wonder that frugal students and backpackers flock to this region every year to take advantage of the great deals. Imagine a wonderful hotel with a pool and a fabulous breakfast for $50 or a delightful meal in a French restaurant for $7. Or how ‘bout a comfortable minibus ride from Cambodia to Thailand for $12 or a souvenir tee shirt for $1. As word gets out, prices are sure to go up, so if you are thinking of a trip to Indochina, now might be the time. In future articles we will explore this region in greater detail, so be sure to check back with us here at Blue Orb Travel for some great information on what to see and where to stay during your visit.

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The Algarve Coast of Portugal

April 18, 2013

A Special Somewhere

Booking a special holiday can be a tricky business. As much as you want it to be a luxurious trip to treat yourself or someone special and you want to know that every little detail has been covered, it would be nice to know that you won’t be paying through the nose. Holidays can vary greatly depending on the travel agent that you book through. For instance, booking an Ibiza vacation through a little-known deal-breaker website will vary in quality to something like Thomas Cook’s Algarve holidays.

But of course it is each to their own, and the people booking cheap and cheerful Ibiza breaks to San Antonio might not require their full quota of sleep, so a luxury hotel could be somewhat wasted.

Getting back to the subject of the Algarve, it is the most southern coastal district of Portugal. It is known for its sun-drenched beaches, a laid back, happy atmosphere and a sun-lounger at every turn, yet it still maintains its Portuguese charm and delivers on the local specialities. The Algarve is considered the seaside jewel of Portugal…and rightly so, thanks to its clean and picturesque seascapes and countryside. It is an ideal holiday if you are looking for somewhere a little bit special…and with a good choice of all inclusive hotels, you can really push the boat out and make sure you are truly well looked after.

The alternative types of accommodation in the Algarve range from self-catering apartments through to five star hotels, so you can pick what’s most suitable for you and your companions. The region itself has plenty to discover, so rather than restricting yourself to the hotel, why not explore the cobbled streets of Silves? Or picnic in the depths of the Ria Formosa Natural Park?

With so much to offer, you can truly let go and enjoy your special time away in the sun-drenched Algarve.

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The Montien Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand

March 26, 2013

The Montien Hotel…Old World Charm

From the moment you walk into the elegant, expansive lobby of The Montien Hotel in Bangkok, Thailand you know that you are in for a real treat. The friendly, multilingual staff welcomes you as if you were an old friend while they efficiently check you into your room. The hotel was opened in 1967 by none other than Her Majesty Queen Sirikit and the name, Montien, appropriately means royal residence in the Thai language. From the wood paneled hallways to the tinkling piano playing in the cocktail lounge in the evening, the hotel exudes old world charm, while at the same time offering some new world features like a spa, sauna, fitness center and conference rooms.

Lobby of the Montien Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand

Amenities Galore

The Montien Hotel boasts 475 modern, well-appointed rooms which include high-speed internet access, cable television, complimentary coffee/tea tray, ensuite bathroom and refrigerator. A sparkling pool with poolside bar invites guests to cool off and freshen up after a day of sightseeing before dining in one of the three restaurants located within the facility. The buffet breakfast in the elegant dining room was one of the nicest I have experienced in my travels! Located in the center of Bangkok, the hotel is only a 30 minute walk from the main Hua Lamphong Railway Station and just a short walk to the MRT with connections to the airport and throughout Bangkok….and it’s also right next to some of the major shopping centers! Whether you arrive by bus, rail or plane, the location simply couldn’t be more convenient. An airport shuttle (surcharge) and free parking on site are also available.

Pool at the Montien Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand

Buffet Breakfast at the Montien Hotel, Bangkok

An Excellent Value

I was able to walk in to the hotel without a reservation and book a room for $80 including breakfast for an additional $9.50. Whether you are a frugal backpacker, a savvy business traveler or a fussy tourist, you will love The Montien Hotel in Bangkok. It has everything that I look for when booking a room including great location, friendly, helpful staff and excellent value, in addition to being safe, clean and comfortable. All these taken together have earned it the designation as an Awesome Accommodation on Blue Orb Travel. As a gateway city to Southeast Asia and a beautiful city in itself, Bangkok, Thailand should be on the itinerary for any trip to this region. I can highly recommend making The Montien Hotel your home base while you are there.

Wood Panelled Hallways at the Montien Hotel, Bangkok

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Bangkok, Thailand

4 Comments / March 5, 2013

How Bangkok Got Its Name

OK, now that I’ve got your attention, perhaps you’ve wondered about some of the place names in Thailand, like Bangkok and Phuket (and we won’t even mention Bang Sue, Dong Rak and Ban Pornpis). As you can well imagine, the way you pronounce them can make a big difference! So where did these appellations come from and what do they mean? Actually, the name for Thailand’s capital city came from the Thai word bang, meaning village on a stream, and ko, meaning island. This makes perfect sense, considering the vital importance of the many waterways in this region, especially the rivers and canals of Bangkok. The beach studded island of Phuket (Careful! It’s pronounced pu-ket.) off the southwestern coast of peninsular Thailand is a perennial favorite of American sailors who are attracted by the name, the girls and the bars, not necessarily in that order. The name comes from bukit, meaning hill, after the mountainous terrain of the island. So, in Thailand the names can be long, interesting and often amusing and this fascinating feature of Thai culture extends to family names as well. Just ask the famous Thai boxer, Terdsak Kokietgym!

John at the Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

Getting Your Bearings in a Very Big City

Bangkok is one of the largest cities in the world, both in terms of size and population, so it’s not surprising that I found it somewhat complicated trying to figure out how to get around. Fortunately, many shop owners, policemen and taxi drivers speak enough English to make communication fairly easy. As in my case, many visitors will arrive in Thailand at the huge Hua Lamphong Railway Station located in the center of Bangkok. In addition to the shops and fast food outlets within this 100 year old architectural wonder, I was also glad to find a convenient and reliable money changer. The lobby is continuously crowded with travelers making connections to the Malay Peninsula, Laos, Cambodia and other cities throughout Thailand. Bangkok has a great Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system connecting major points in the city, the Railway Station and the Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok International Airport). There’s one of those long names again! Just a half hour walk from the train station I found a wonderful place to stay, The Montien Hotel, which I will feature in the next article. Just a quick safety note…remember while you are walking through Bangkok, that it is important to stay hydrated. Although I found almost no MacDonald’s in Bangkok, there seemed to be a 7-Eleven every half a block! They turned out to be a great place to cool off for a few minutes while I bought another cold bottle of water.

The Hua Lamphong Railway Station, Bangkok

Not-So-Siamese Cats near the Standing Buddha

The Ubiquitous Tuk-Tuk

Walking this huge city is out of the question and you will almost certainly need to use the MRT, taxis or tuk-tuks to help you get from one district to another. This was my first introduction to the ever present tuk-tuk in its many forms found throughout Southeast Asia. The tuk-tuk is best described as a three-wheel rickshaw powered by either a bicycle or a motor scooter. Some seem almost to have been put together by the owner from spare parts, while others are the more substantial factory built models known as an auto-rickshaw. You will not have any trouble finding a tuk-tuk, as they are on almost every street corner and you will hear the familiar toot of the horn as you’re walking, ‘asking’ if you’d like a ride. The drivers are universally friendly and helpful, fares are generally reasonable and it’s a hoot driving through the busy streets in the open air. One word of caution…if the fare seems too good to be true, be prepared to make a detour to a jewelry store or tailor shop where the driver gets a commission, before getting to your destination. Speaking of friendly, the Thai policemen are also happy to assist tourists and I found the small police huts situated throughout the city to be a great place to get directions in a pinch. One evening when I was totally lost and exhausted, an officer actually came out of the hut and walked me to the nearest taxi stop, flagged down a taxi for me and gave the driver instructions to my hotel! All right, I know what you’re thinking, but honest, I hadn’t had a drop to drink!

Watch Out for Wild Tuk-Tuk Drivers in Bangkok!

The Standing Buddha at Wat Intharawihan, Bangkok

The Grand Palace

Perhaps the most famous tourist destination in Bangkok is the Grand Palace, home of the world’s longest reigning monarch, His Majesty the King, Bhumibol Adulyadej. The construction of this 60 acre complex of temples, residences, courts and gardens on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River began in 1782 and while the current monarch resides in Chitralada Palace, the Grand Palace is still used for official functions. Surrounded by defensive walls, the inner courts are opened to the public every day from 0830 to 1530 and the entrance fee is about $13.00. This is a must see for every visitor to Southeast Asia and I think once you have been there you will agree that the palace rivals Versailles and the temples give the Sistine Chapel a good run for its money. Visitors will be dazzled by the ornate buildings, the splendid architecture and the unbelievable sight of more gold than you can imagine. One of the most famous structures within the complex is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha or Wat Phra Kaew, dating back to 1785. Interestingly, the Emerald Buddha is actually made of jade.

Inner Court at the Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

Down by the Chao Phraya River

Many of the most important sites in Bangkok are located near the Chao Phraya River, which is an easy walk from the Grand Palace. Almost adjacent to the Grand Palace is the impressive Reclining Buddha in the Buddhist temple known as Wat Pho, which has been mercifully shortened from Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhlaram Ratchaworamahawihan! Covered in gold leaf and measuring 151 feet long, this Buddha will impress even the most jaded tourist. The entrance fee is just over $3.00. Next, go to the nearby pier and catch a water taxi crossing the Chao Phraya River to visit Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn. By now you have probably figured out that wat means temple in the Thai language. Wat Arun is probably the most recognizable landmark in Bangkok next to the Grand Palace and for an entrance fee of about $1.50 you can explore the grounds and gardens and climb the steep stairs to the top of the main prang or tower for a spectacular view back across the river to Bangkok. Crossing the river once again and heading up north, you can visit the 100 foot tall Standing Buddha, dating back to 1867. It is located within the temple Wat Intharawihan, affectionately known as Wat In, and admission is free. The Standing Buddha is kept company by an impressive array of cats which seem to have taken up residence on the grounds. Be sure to join us for our next article which will review a wonderful hotel near the center of Bangkok, The Montien Hotel.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, Bangkok

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