And you thought Georgetown was a chic district in Washington, D.C.! Named after King George III, the Malaysian version was founded as a trading post for the British East India Company in 1786. It is now the capital of the state of Penang in Malaysia and is considered the most livable city in that country. Located on Penang Island just off the northwest coast of peninsular Malaysia, it is easily accessible by ferry and is a worthwhile stop on your journey up the Malay Peninsula from Singapore to Bangkok. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its unique cultural and architectural features, Georgetown offers visitors a kaleidoscope of Islamic, British Colonial and Malay treasures.
Evening Street Scene, Georgetown, MalaysiaSt. George’s Church, Georgetown, Malaysia
Easily Walkable
Anyone in reasonably good physical condition should be able to easily walk to the major sights in Georgetown. I began my walking tour at the Hotel Sentral, a great place to stay which will be featured in our next Awesome Accommodations article. My first stop was the nearby Komtar shopping complex, which also houses the main bus terminal, located at the center of the city. The 65 story Komtar tower is the largest building in Penang and has four floors dedicated to a shopping mall with two department stores and many shops…a great place to look for some unique gifts and souvenirs. Some of the most popular items sought by tourists are Batik, a handcrafted fabric with elegant designs highly prized by fashionistas, ceramic pottery, beaded shoes for women and capal, the traditional Malay sandals for men.
School Boys in Penang, MalaysiaFort Cornwallis, Georgetown, Malaysia
Many Historic Sites
Heading east toward the waterfront you will come to the Ferry Terminal on the coastal road known as Weld Quay where you can catch a boat to Butterworth on the mainland. In this area you will find a conglomeration of architecture, including modern high-rises, Chinese temples and shops and historic European trading houses. The nearby Malayan Railway Building with its clock tower is a classic example of the heritage buildings that dot Georgetown. A little farther along is the Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee Clock Tower and the remnants of Fort Cornwallis. The fort served as a British military and administrative conclave as far back as the 1700s. Heading west along the waterfront you will come to the Esplanade, a large grassy park often filled with boys flying kites. Looking across the green you will see the City Hall and Town Hall, both historic buildings dating back to the 1800s which help make Georgetown a world heritage site. Interspersed along your walking tour you will see many other historic treasures, including St. George’s Church built in 1818, the old colonial Court House Building, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion and the Kapitan Kling Mosque. If time permits, you’ll want to visit the Penang Islamic Museum and the Penang Museum and Art Gallery. As you can see, Georgetown on Penang Island off the coast of Malaysia is a cornucopia of culture that you will not want to miss during your visit to this beautiful country.
Queen Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower, GeorgetownColonial Building in Historic Center, Georgetown
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Just a short walk from Pudu Sentral, the main bus terminal in Kuala Lumpur, I found a wonderful hotel where an elegant room was waiting just for me without even having a reservation. Hotel Capitol is located on Jalan Bukit Bintang, one of the major roads in KL, lying in the Bukit Bintang district which is known for its restaurants, shopping and entertainment. One could easily walk to most of the major sights in KL from the hotel, including the Petronas Twin Towers, the KL Tower, the National Mosque and the old KL Railway Station, not to mention the many museums, shopping plazas and markets dotting the city. In addition, the hotel is only a 30 minute ride from the ultra modern Kuala Lumpur International Airport on the high speed rail line.
Hotel Capitol Entrance, Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaHotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Elegant Decor
The large, beautifully appointed room was fresh and clean and had a spectacular view of the city through large floor to ceiling windows. To my surprise, after getting into bed for the night I looked out the window and saw the Petronas Twin Towers all lit up in a sparkling display…a truly stunning sight! The room had one queen bed, a large, modern bathroom, a desk and a mini bar with free coffee and tea service. Wi-Fi access was free and for a small fee, wired high speed internet was available in the room. After a frenetic walking tour of the city, it was nice to return to my quiet, relaxing, comfortable room.
Room at the Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaBathroom at the Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Reasonably Priced
All of this came for the price of $82, and while this did not include breakfast, there were two dining options available within the facility. Another nice amenity for those traveling by car…parking is free. This excellent value for such an elegant hotel qualifies it for inclusion on our list of Awesome Accommodations on Blue Orb Travel. The Hotel Capitol in Kuala Lumpur met all of the standards I look for in lodging. It was safe, clean and comfortable. The location was ideal and the staff could not have been more welcoming, friendly and helpful. I can highly recommend the Hotel Capitol for your next visit to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!
Night View of Petronas Twin Towers from Hotel Capitol RoomDay View of Petronas Twin Towers from Hotel Capitol Room
Just a pleasant six hour bus ride north of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur is both an interesting and a beautiful city that should be on the itinerary for any visit to Southeast Asia. Perhaps best known for its spectacular Petronas Twin Towers, KL, as it is affectionately known, is also a wonderful example of a welcoming capital city in a moderate Islamic country. After checking into my hotel and purchasing my bus ticket to Georgetown for the next day I took a walking tour of the city with a fellow from Germany who I’d met on the bus. Marten had been to KL before and was a great travel guide.
The KL Tower and Petronas Twin Towers Dominate the SkylineBridge over Muddy Water, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
The Petronas Twin Towers
We started out with the number one attraction, the Petronas Twin Towers, which were completed in 1998. At a height of 1,483 feet and 88 floors, the towers were the tallest buildings in the world from 1998 to 2004 when they were surpassed by Taipei 101 in Taiwan. The towers are connected by a skybridge at the 41st and 42nd floors which is not actually fastened to the main tower structures. Instead, it is designed to slide in and out of the towers when they sway during high winds to prevent the bridge from breaking. It is truly a dazzling spectacle when all the lights are shining from the towers at night!
Petronas Twin Towers with Connecting Skybridge, Kuala LumpurJohn in the Lobby of the Petronas Twin Towers, Kuala Lumpur
The National Mosque
The city was founded in 1857 where the muddy waters of the Klang and Gombak Rivers come together, and in Malay the term Kuala Lumpur means ‘muddy confluence’. We walked past the KL Tower, another landmark pinnacle in the city, and across the river to visit the National Mosque. This modern structure built in 1965 features a 239 feet high minaret and an umbrella shaped roof and it can accommodate 15,000 people! Visitors can enjoy the reflecting pools and fountains outside the Mosque and are welcome to visit the interior after donning the appropriate apparel.
The National Mosque, Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaMinaret and Reflecting Pools at National Mosque, Kuala Lumpur
The Old KL Railway Station
Only a short walk from the mosque is the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, completed in 1911 and now replaced by the newer KL Sentral Station nearby. Commuter trains still stop at the old station, but the last real train rolled through in 2001. The distinctive Mughal architecture (the Mughal style of India) is definitely worth a peek. Several museums, such as the National Museum and the Islamic Arts Museum, are located nearby rounding out the important tourist attractions in this section of the city.
The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway StationOld KL Railway Station Displaying Mughal Architecture
The Markets of Kuala Lumpur
Among the most fun and interesting aspects of Kuala Lumpur are the markets, the most notable of which is the Central Market. This two story and thankfully now air conditioned structure was built in 1936 and has become a cultural center featuring many artists and craftsmen. There are many other street markets and night markets throughout the city, which I found to be a lot more interesting than the modern malls. Be sure to return for my next posting where I’ll provide a full report and review of an Awesome Accommodation in Kuala Lumpur, the Hotel Capitol.
Street Market, Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaNight Market, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
The two Southeast Asia gateway cities of Singapore and Bangkok, which lie at either end of the Malay Peninsula, are connected by an efficient, inexpensive, safe and comfortable network of ground transportation. I had been wanting to check out this route for a number of years and finally had the opportunity to go by bus and train from Singapore in the south to Bangkok in the north, with overnight stays in the Malaysian cities of Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown/Penang. I met a number of other travelers, including solos, groups and families, following the same trail and it turned out to be a great way to experience the culture and history of this interesting region. As per my usual routine, I had made no reservations for transportation or lodging ahead of time, but had no difficulty in securing either along the way.
Bus Leaving from Golden Mile Complex, Singapore
Logistics
While travelers could just as easily start at the huge, but visitor friendly train station up in Bangkok and head south, I began my journey down in Singapore going north. The trip only took me three days, but of course it would have been nice to have had more time to explore some of the sights along the way, such as Melaka and the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia or Phuket on the Southern Peninsula of Thailand. After carefully researching all the alternatives I chose to take the bus from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur and then from there to Georgetown. I then took the overnight train from Penang to Bangkok. A good starting point for planning your trip is a visit to the website, The Man in Seat 61, one of our featured links, which has all the details on ground transportation in Southeast Asia and throughout the world for that matter. I found that the detailed information described on this website was factually correct, reliable and up to date…spot on, as they say…and I used it as a guide during my entire trip through Southeast Asia.
Inside Bus from Kuala Lumpur to Georgetown, Malaysia
Booking Your Tickets
When visiting Southeast Asia, I recommend that you fly in and out with an ‘open jaw’ ticket, arriving in Singapore, as I did, and flying home from Bangkok, or vice versa. This precludes the need for backtracking, saving both time and money. While I was exploring Singapore, I stopped at the Golden Mile Complex on Beach Road, a shopping mall where there are many bus companies standing by to book your seat on a coach heading north. For $32 I reserved a seat on a bus with Five Stars Tours (Update: Five Stars Tours abruptly closed all operations in January 2014) leaving the next morning for Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The six hour ride took us across the Straits of Johor and on through some beautiful country. Arriving in Kuala Lumpur around 3 PM gave me plenty of time to explore this city and get my bus ticket for the next day heading on to Georgetown/Penang. On that leg of the trip the five hour bus ride was comfortable and included rest stops along the way, including a stop at Ipoh near the Cameron Highlands. The train is an equally good alternative for traveling between Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown.
Ferry from Butterworth to Georgetown, Malaysia
A Town Called Butterworth in Malaysia?
Confused about Penang vs. Georgetown vs. Butterworth? Well, here’s the low-down. Penang is a state on the northwest coast of Malaysia which consists of an island, known as Penang Island, and a portion which is situated on the mainland. Butterworth (love that name!) is a city on the mainland part of the state of Penang, which has a bus and train station and a ferry landing all within walking distance of one another. Georgetown is a city on the Penang Island part of the state of Penang and it has a bus station and ferry landing, but no train service. The most popular way in and out of Georgetown on Penang Island is through Butterworth on the mainland. The 20 minute ferry crossing costs about 40 cents for pedestrians going from Butterworth to Georgetown and is free going the other way. Ferries leave every 10 to 20 minutes from about 6 AM to 1 AM.
Inside the Night Train to Bangkok, Thailand
Night Train to Bangkok
In my case I arrived in Butterworth from Kuala Lumpur by bus. I walked to the nearby train station to purchase my ticket on the night train to Bangkok for the following day. Then I took the ferry across to Georgetown for the rest of the day and overnight. The following day, I took the ferry back across to Butterworth to catch the train. The ticket for a sleeper on the train cost $34 and the train left at 2:20 PM, arriving at the Hua Lamphong Railway Station (the main station in Bangkok) at 12:20 PM the next day. So, what was it like spending almost 24 hours on a train traveling up the Southern Peninsula of Thailand? It was actually quite pleasant and relaxing with some spectacular scenery along the way. I enjoyed meeting a number of other travelers and had a good night’s sleep before arriving in Bangkok the next morning. It was also my first introduction to the sometimes painfully slow speed of the trains in Southeast Asia, compared to the express trains of Europe or the bullet train in Japan. While the departure and arrival times were reliable, there were times that the train seemed to be just pooping along. In the end this ate into some of my allotted time, which I eventually had to make up for by taking several unplanned in-region flights.
Scenery Along Train Route to Bangkok, Thailand
Coming Next: Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown with reviews of two Awesome Accommodations.
You can get to Singapore by train, bus or boat, but most visitors will arrive by plane at the spectacular Changi Airport, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful in the world. There you will be greeted by an efficient, friendly staff as you walk through the great halls festooned with live orchids and other exotic blooms. Going through customs is a breeze and almost 80% of the world’s countries can travel to Singapore without a visa! The Singapore Mass Rapid Transit subway or MRT is one of the best transportation systems in the world and you can catch the 30 minute ride from the airport into downtown for about $2. Although much of downtown Singapore can and should be walked, the MRT will be your best friend when your feet get tired or you want to explore some of the outer regions.
Changi Airport, Singapore
Along with Bangkok, Singapore is one of the two major gateway cities for Southeast Asia. For those heading north, I recommend taking the bus from the Golden Mile Complex on Beach Road where I got a ticket to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia for $32. There are many bus companies to choose from there and I can recommend Five Stars Tours (Update: Five Stars Tours abruptly closed all operations in January 2014), which provided a safe, comfortable ride across the Straits of Johor and up the Malay Peninsula. In short, Singapore has transportation all figured out and tourists will appreciate the ease, comfort and convenience that this travel hub provides.
The MRT, Mass Rapid Transit, Singapore
2. Amenities Galore
When it comes to amenities, the city-state of Singapore is at the head of the pack. Whether it’s hotels, dining, shopping or top quality hospitals you’re looking for, Singapore has them all. The spectrum of available accommodations runs the gamut from five star hotels to budget hostels, but visitors will find few real bargains when it comes to looking for a place to stay. Perhaps a city with so much else to offer can be forgiven this one disappointment. On the other hand, Singapore is a diner’s paradise, particularly if you’re into street food. There are vendors everywhere, now mostly in well regulated centers, which is somewhat reassuring to wary visitors concerned about sanitary standards. Be sure to save some room in your suitcase or backpack, because nobody leaves Singapore empty-handed. The shopping is simply too good to pass up. In addition to toys, house wares and silk ties and scarves, I have purchased three custom tailored suits on my various visits to Singapore.
Merlion Park on Marina Bay, Singapore
Planning ahead regarding medical care is an important part of any trip and includes having adequate health insurance, medical evacuation coverage when appropriate and a contingency for where to seek assistance when needed. Singapore is fortunate to have several excellent hospitals, including Mount Elizabeth Hospital and Singapore General Hospital. It’s no accident that Singapore has one of the world’s highest life expectancy and lowest infant mortality rates. One tip to remember regarding medical care in any foreign city…you can always check with your embassy or consulate for advice or recommendations.
Clarke Quay, Singapore
3. Multicultural Diversity
Singapore is an outstanding example of how people from diverse ethnic and religious backgrounds can live together in harmony, enjoying their differences, while at the same time supporting their commonality. There are many cities and countries throughout the world that could learn a lot here. One need only take a ride on the MRT to see people from all backgrounds in close proximity, interacting with one another on a friendly basis. Singapore actually showcases its diversity in its various cultural enclaves which comprise several of the downtown districts. Dating back to 1330, Chinatown is one of the largest and oldest Chinese communities in the world. It is home to a number of historic, cultural and architectural sites, not to mention the accommodations and dining experiences available there. Just across the Singapore River is Little India which features the Tamil culture and is a popular destination for visitors who appreciate curry, enjoy shopping and want to see some interesting temples. Rounding out the cultural panoply in Singapore is Arab Street. Perhaps you’ve heard the expression “The Arab Street” used to describe popular opinion in the Muslim world. Well this is the real thing…a neighborhood actually known as Arab Street, where you can experience the real Arabian culture, including ethnic cuisine, bargaining for your purchases in the souks, and Singapore’s largest mosque, the Sultan Mosque. With such a diverse array of cultures in Singapore, you’ll feel like you’ve had a quick trip around the world by the time you leave.
The Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple
4. Orchard Road
The Orchard Road area, known simply as Orchard by the locals, is one of my favorite spots in Singapore. As Singapore’s more homey answer to Tokyo’s Ginza, it is a hub of activity day and night with its shopping, entertainment, hotels, restaurants and parks. Now a one way street, it got its name back in the 1800s when it was the road that led to the orchards and plantations. Just take the MRT to the Orchard station and you’ll find yourself in the center of activity. Pedestrians will find it easy to navigate this tree-lined boulevard with its crossing bridges and walkways underneath the road. One could spend days wandering around this famous district, just browsing through the upscale department stores and shopping plazas and taking periodic refuge from the crowds in the Botanic Gardens, where admission is free.
Orchard Road at Night, Singapore
5. The Historic District
Considered the founder of modern Singapore, British statesman Sir Stamford Raffles sailed up the Singapore River in 1819 and developed a town plan for the future city-state that has endured to this day. Visitors can now get a glimpse of history by walking along the river from its outlet in Marina Bay all the way up to Clarke Quay. Before heading up river be sure to check out Clifford Pier, the original site of an old fishing village and stop by the Merlion Park with its statue spewing water from its mouth. Here you will also get a glimpse of the unbelievable Marina Bay Sands Resort, a series of three skyscrapers with what looks like a huge ship on top. Now going up the Singapore River, along the way you will see the Parliament House and Raffles Landing, the original landing site of Sir Stamford Raffles, now marked by his statue. A little farther north of the river are the St. Andrews Cathedral and the iconic Raffles Hotel. The Raffles is one of the most famous hotels in the world, patronized by the rich and famous including many literary giants and, thankfully, the hotel grounds are open to visitors. Finally reaching Clarke Quay, visitors will be delighted with the combination of historic buildings and modern pedestrian mall right in the heart of Singapore.
The Raffles Hotel, Singapore
6. Sentosa Island
Sentosa is an island resort just south of downtown Singapore which features a mile long beach, five star hotels, golf courses and many other attractions suitable for all members of the family. Visitors can enter Sentosa by a spectacular, albeit expensive, cable car ride from Mount Faber, by public transportation or by walking across the new Sentosa Boardwalk, where the admission fee is one Singapore dollar. Other attractions on this popular resort island include a Butterfly Park, another, bigger Merlion Statue and, my favorite, the Underwater World which is an underground aquarium with a horizontal escalator that transports you through a glass tube surrounded by water. You’ll feel like you are swimming with the fish without getting wet! Sentosa is definitely worth seeing if you have time during your visit to Singapore.
Sentosa Boardwalk, Singapore
7. Architectural Splendor
For students of architecture, Singapore is a veritable encyclopedia of building styles, reflecting various cultures and periods, while at the same time based on utility and the best use of limited space. Within the short span of a few city blocks you will see everything from ultramodern skyscrapers to Art Deco construction to Colonial Period buildings. As you wander the city you will be impressed with the number of places of worship that demonstrate the great diversity of the city, including Chinese, Hindu and Sikh temples, Jewish Synagogues, Islamic Mosques and Christian Churches. Over the years that I have visited Singapore, it seems that the city has been in a constant state of construction, with new skyscrapers and ever more dazzling buildings like the Esplanade Theatres on the Bay going up all the time. Fortunately, the city fathers have a great respect for the past and make allowances for the preservation of historic structures. While a signature building representing the city-state of Singapore has yet to emerge, this beautiful metropolis has definitely taken its place among the great architectural destinations of the world.
The Marina Bay Sands Resort, Singapore
8. Festivals and Holidays
On my first trip to Singapore I had the good fortune to arrive at the time of the Chinese New Year celebration. The spectacular nighttime parade down Orchard Road is something I’ll never forget. I have also experienced the Festival of the Hungry Ghosts during which deceased relatives are said to return to the realm of the living and wander the earth for thirty days. While they are making their rounds, living relatives make food offerings to prevent the deceased from performing acts of mischief. Because of the rich diversity of Singapore there are many other festivals, events and holidays for tourists to experience. In addition to having most of the western holidays, Singaporeans also celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival, Teacher’s Day, Children’s Day and Hindu, Buddhist, Muslim and Christian holidays. Planning ahead is important because accommodations are harder to come by during these periods and costs are higher.
Cable Cars to Sentosa, Singapore
9. Temperate Climate
Singapore is located just 85 miles north of the Equator, so it’s not surprising that it would be hot and humid there. But ‘some like it hot’ and I happen to be one of them. With little variation in the temperature and steady rainfall throughout the year, there are no distinct seasons in Singapore. The wettest months are from November to January when it may rain for a time every day, usually in brief bursts in the afternoon, and the driest months are from May to July. Singapore is often described as having a tropical rain forest climate or having monsoon characteristics, but being a land of generally clement weather makes this a comfortable, pleasant place to visit year round. For those not used to humidity, you can seek refuge in almost any indoor facility, including the MRT, shopping arcades and underground walkways.
‘First Generation’ Bronze Statue on the Singapore River
10. Tiger Beer
I would be remiss if I did not mention one of Singapore’s most famous and popular products…Tiger Beer! While the name Singapore is derived from the Malay word Singapura, meaning Lion City, it is the tiger for which the city’s signature adult refreshment is named. And younger travelers will be happy to know that adulthood begins at age 18 in Singapore, at least where drinking is involved. In 1932 Tiger Beer became Singapore’s first locally brewed beer and it is now available in 60 countries worldwide. This pale lager comes in bottles with a strikingly attractive label which loses nothing in the translation when applied to souvenir tee-shirts and mugs. So, when you need a break from shopping and sightseeing on a warm afternoon in Singapore, what could be better than ducking into a pub and having a cold Tiger Beer!
