After 20 inches of torrential rainfall within the span of a few days, the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera was hit by massive flooding and mud flows on October 25, 2011. The Cinque Terre, which means ‘five lands’ is a series of five picturesque villages clinging to the rugged Ligurian Coast of Northern Italy. Even those who have not had the pleasure of visiting the Cinque Terre have undoubtedly seen travel pictures of these famous villages. Arguably one of the most beautiful places in the world, it has in recent years become an extremely popular destination for travelers from across the globe. The eight mile Cinque Terre Hike between the villages is now an almost obligatory pilgrimage for any traveler worth his salt.
Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre
Streets Buried Under Rocks and Mud
Monterosso and Vernazza, the two northern-most villages, were the hardest hit. The narrow streets were buried under 12 feet of rocks and mud, cars were overturned and the harbors were filled with debris. This natural disaster is said to have claimed ten lives and there are reports of others who are missing. Initially, roads and rail lines were closed, making access by sea the only connection to the area. About 500 Italian troops have been dispatched to the region to assist the local inhabitants with clean up. Investigations into the cause of this disaster are ongoing, but over-building has been suggested as a possible culprit.
Vernazza, Italy on the Cinque Terre
The Resilient Italian People
Our hearts go out to the citizens of the Cinque Terre during this difficult time. No strangers to natural disasters (earthquakes and volcanic eruptions come to mind), the resilient Italian people will be able to dig out from under the debris and restore the charm and beauty of the Cinque Terre to its antediluvian state. Travelers with the Ligurian Coast of Italy on their itinerary should check with their agents for information about possible changes to their travel plans. The trails of the Cinque Terre Hike are likely to be closed for some time, but it is our hope that visitors will soon be able to safely return to the ‘five lands’ of the Italian Riviera.
Video Footage of Vernazza Flooding Captured by a Tourist
The Llys Llewelyn Guest House…An Awesome Accommodation
As the gateway to Snowdonia National Park, Conwy, Wales is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the British Isles. At certain times of the year finding accommodations there can be difficult without planning ahead and that is exactly the situation I found myself in when I stepped off the train early in the afternoon on a Wednesday in late May. After checking several ‘bed and breakfasts’ near the center of this historic, medieval town and finding them fully booked, someone suggested that I try the Llys Llewelyn Guest House just a few blocks up the hill in an area of Conwy appropriately called Mount Pleasant. It was located right next to the old town walls and afforded a spectacular view of the town, river and castle below.
Llys Llewelyn Guest House Next to the Old Town Walls
One of My Favorite Sleeps!
From the moment I spotted the impressive edifice and walked up the front courtyard, I could see why this place was listed as a historic building. Roger Hughes was covering for his father that day and invited me in when I rang the bell. He had a room with private bath available for $48 including a traditional English breakfast. I was soon checking in to a large room that included two beds, a television, and a table with a fully stocked coffee and tea tray. The room was clean, cheery and welcoming and was appointed in what I would call ‘old fashioned’ décor. After unpacking and getting myself organized I was soon out the door and on my way to explore Conwy. I had only to step across the street to find an ancient stone stairway leading to the top of the old town walls where I began my walking tour of this quaint Welsh village.
Room #1 Looking Out to the Town Below
Like Being in an Old British Movie
After a wonderful day of exploring Conwy and environs, which I described in my previous posting, I returned to the Llys Llewelyn Guest House around 9 PM exhausted and ready to sit down with a cup of tea. Even at this hour it was still light out way up there in the northern latitudes. I plopped myself down in the overstuffed chair by the window looking out at the estuary and the town below and watched the darkness settle in. As the lights in town came on one by one and the castle gradually faded into a mere silhouette in the shadows below I began to feel like I was in an old British movie. I could almost see Robert Donat and Madeleine Carroll coming up the walk (The 39 Steps) and half expected Dame May Whitty to knock on my door (The Lady Vanishes). OK, maybe I’m getting a little carried away, but you had to be there. It really was an entrancing feeling to be a part of this wonderful setting so far from home.
Dining Room at the Llys Llewelyn Guest House
Up Early for Breakfast
Alas, the knock never came on my door and after a good night’s sleep I was up early the next morning to catch the train to York, England. After packing, I went down to a charming dining room to find the owner, Alan Hughes, waiting to take my order. He prepared a delicious breakfast and then asked if I would mind if he pulled up a chair so we could chat. I was glad to have the company and enjoyed hearing him talk about the history of the area and how he came to be the proprietor of the guest house after retiring as a Welsh Olympic ski coach. He explained how he enjoyed meeting his guests who came from all over the world and that having an opportunity to get to know them was reward enough for his efforts as a good host. After breakfast we took a quick tour of the rest of the facility which has a number of large well-furnished bedrooms available, including family, twin and double, most with en-suite facilities. If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Conwy, Wales I recommend Room #1 at the Llys Llewelyn Guest House, so you can sit in that chair by the window at the end of a busy day of sightseeing and watch the sun go down!
Alan Hughes, Proprietor, in the TV Lounge of the Guest House
Conwy is located near the boundary of Snowdonia National Park on the coast of ‘old north’ Wales (not to be confused with New South Wales!). Pronounced ‘Conway’, it is a medieval walled market town that boasts one of the best preserved castles in Wales. The short train ride from Shrewsbury, England cost about $25 and took us through some beautiful scenery along the way. As the train approached town we crossed the Conwy Railway Bridge dating back to 1849, which is situated along side the Conwy Suspension Bridge dating back to 1826, now used for pedestrians only. Even before disembarking, passengers are treated to an up close and personal view of Conwy Castle as the train circles around it before stopping at a tiny, unmanned train station.
Conwy Castle on the North Coast orf Wales
On the Irish Sea
On arrival visitors immediately get the impression that they are in a quaint little village of historic significance. What makes it even more interesting is that nearly 30% of the town population speaks the ancient Welsh language. The town is located on the Conwy River where it widens into an estuary leading to the Irish Sea. Looking across the water one can see the town of Deganwy on the far side. Conwy is a great jumping off point for forays into Snowdonia National Park with its picturesque hamlets like the famous Betws-y-Coed. With the many outdoor activities available in the park, it is definitely one of the places that will be high on the list of stops during my next trip to Wales.
The Waterfront Looking Toward the Castle
A Popular Tourist Destination
Since Conwy is such a popular tourist destination, I knew that finding a room there might be difficult, but little did I realize that I would end up staying in a Bed and Breakfast that would turn out to be one of my favorite ‘sleeps’ of the trip. I will feature the Llys Llewelyn Guest House in my next posting. But for now, trust me…this is where you will want to stay when you visit Conwy. An access point to the medieval town walls was located close by the B and B, so after checking into my room I ventured out and climbed to the top of the walls for a good view of the town, the castle and the estuary below. Among the best preserved in Europe, the town walls cover three fourths of a mile and have 22 towers. Dodging the many school children visiting that day, I followed the walkway along the top of the wall until I had the lay of the land and was ready to explore what awaited me below in more detail.
Street Scene in Conwy, Wales
Historic City
Although small, the town of Conwy is filled with historic sights which are easily seen on foot. The Castle was built by Edward I of England between 1283 and 1289 and in my opinion is one of the most beautiful of all the castles I have seen in Europe. Virtually across the street from the castle is the town itself, which contains a Guild Hall, the Aberconwy House, which is a medieval merchant’s town house, the Plas Mawr, which is an Elizabethan town house, and a funny little dwelling right on the waterfront that is billed as the smallest house in Britain. A statue of Llywelyn the Great stands in Lancaster Square from which the narrow streets of town fan out. In addition, the remnants of the original Conwy Abbey, which he built, can be seen at the site of the new church in the center of town.
Site of the Original Conwy Abbey
A Fishing Village, Too
At the bottom of the hill along the river visitors are treated to another look at the castle from a different angle and then turning the other way, the fleet of colorful fishing boats comes into view. As an inveterate hiker, I was delighted to find two great trails to walk during my visit to Conwy. First, I took the long cycle path along the south side of the estuary past Bodlondeb Park nature preserve. By the time I reached the sandy beach at Morfa the crowds had thinned out to almost nothing. I stopped to chat with a couple of fishermen along the mussel beds before reaching the elegant golf club and marina at the mouth of the estuary. After returning to Conwy, my second trek was in the other direction. Crossing the river on the pedestrian bridge, I walked to the town of Deganwy on the other side of the estuary, stopping at intervals to take a look back at Conwy and the castle off in the distance.
Mussel Beds on the Mouth of the Conwy Estuary on the Irish Sea
Dinner at the Local Pub
After perusing some antique shops in Deganwy I headed back to Conwy to find a place to eat. From a good selection of pubs I settled on one called Ye Olde Mailcoach in the center of town, ordered a beer and some food and sat down to relax for the first time that day. An older gentleman stopped by my table to say ‘hello’ and ask how I had enjoyed my walk. It turned out to be one of the fishermen I had chatted with miles and hours ago. It was fun chatting with some of the other guests at the pub who were typical of the friendly folks I met everywhere throughout my visit to Wales. As darkness set in and the town slowly closed up I returned to the Llys Llewelyn Guest House for the night. Be sure to stay tuned for my review of this great Bed and Breakfast in my next posting.
The Bellstone Hotel in Shrewsbury, England…An Awesome Accommodation
The first several establishments that I tried after arriving rather late in the day in Shrewsbury, England were either fully booked or too expensive. One proprietor who had no vacancies was kind enough to point me in the direction of the Bellstone Hotel and in no time I was checking into a sparkling clean room with private bath for the equivalent of $98, including a full Shropshire breakfast. I soon found out that the hotel was brand new, having just recently opened and I apparently had the honor of being the first guest to occupy my room.
The Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, England
Located on a fairly quiet street in the center of town, the Bellstone is a stylish hotel with 12 well appointed en-suite rooms and a bar and bistro on the main floor. The staff members were extremely pleasant, friendly and welcoming and immediately made me feel right at home. After getting checked in and settled into my room, I was able to head out for a tour of the medieval town of Shrewsbury, armed with a map and a list of important sights to see provided by the hotel manager.
Bar and Bistro at the Bellstone Hotel
My room could not have been more comfortable…with a nice bed, desk, television and coffee and tea tray provided by the hotel. The bathroom was spacious and clean and there was a skylight that afforded an interesting view of a nearby clock tower. After my invigorating walk around Shrewsbury it felt good to get back to my room, get my shoes off and take a load off my feet. I gave in to my rapidly developing habit of sitting down with a cup of tea as I contemplated my day in this beautiful little walled medieval city.
Room at the Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, England
After a good night’s sleep I had a wonderful breakfast the next morning. I discovered that breakfast in the British Isles is generally composed of eggs, hash brown potatoes, fried tomatoes and mushrooms, baked beans, ham or bacon (rashers in Ireland!), toast and tea or coffee. By this stage of my trip I had already learned to decline the black pudding, which is actually blood sausage! Breakfast in England is called a ‘full English breakfast’, in Ireland it is a ‘full Irish breakfast’, and in this case, since I was in the county of Shropshire, it was a ‘full Shropshire breakfast’, each one having its own slight variations. In any case, the breakfast at the Bellstone Hotel was delicious and after bidding farewell to my gracious hosts I was soon on my way to catch the train to Conwy, Wales. On your next trip to the British Isles you will not want to miss Shrewsbury, England and the Bellstone Hotel would be a perfect place to stay while you are there!
Shiny New Bathroom at the Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, EnglandFull Shropshire Breakfast at the Bellstone HotelClock Tower Through the Skylight
Shrewsbury, England was one of the pleasant surprises of my trip through the British Isles. On my rough itinerary it was originally planned as just a place to spend the night after the scenic train ride through the heart of Wales and before setting off the following morning to Conwy on the north coast of Wales. Little did I know that Shrewsbury would turn out to be a colorful gem embedded in the green English countryside. Just across the border from Wales, it is set in pastoral Shropshire County with the River Severn winding slowly around the center of the city. I arrived in this historic market town late in the afternoon, still entranced by the wonderful train ride from Swansea, and was fortunate to find a room straight away at the Bellstone Hotel, which will be featured in my next posting.
A Walk Through History
With a map and directions provided by the friendly folks at the hotel, I set out on a circuitous walk around the town. Although somewhat hilly, Shrewsbury should be easily walkable for most fit travelers. While most of the highlights could be covered in several hours, much more time is required to really take in and enjoy all the pleasures this delightful medieval city has to offer. Steeped in history dating back to the 5th century, its most notable native son is none other than Charles Darwin himself. The Battle of Shrewsbury was fought a few miles north of town in 1403 with King Henry IV’s victory commemorated in Shakespeare’s play of the same name.
Going With the Flow
My walking tour took me down to the River Severn, the longest river in the UK, where rowing is a popular pastime. Walking along Victoria Quay past the Welsh Bridge you can look across to the elegant brick edifice of Shrewsbury School perched on a hillside overlooking the Boating Club. Further along you come to Quarry Park where a glance up over the expansive lawns provides a view of the unique circular Church of Saint Chad. The centerpiece of Quarry Park is the sunken garden known as the Dingle, built in a former stone quarry. Every August the world famous Shrewsbury Flower Show is held at Quarry Park, providing a good excuse for me to return someday.
Castles and Abbeys
Moving right along, following the old town walls, you will come to the old Market Hall in the square and the narrow streets lined with Tudor buildings exhibiting the typical timber framing dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. One could spend hours looking through the old shops in the historic district known as the Wyle Cop, but there’s still much more to see down the hill. Just across the English Bridge is Shrewsbury Abbey dating back to 1083. Returning back towards the Railway Station is Shrewsbury Castle, a red sandstone fortification dating back to 1074. By the time I crawled into bed that evening my dogs were pooped and my mind was reeling from sensory overload! My day had begun in Cardiff, Wales with a brief stopover in Swansea. Then there was the scenic train ride through Wales and finally, Shrewsbury, a city any visitor to England will not want to miss. Another big day lay ahead with more pleasant surprises awaiting me in Conwy, Wales.
Swansea on the South Coast of Wales is only a one hour train ride from Cardiff, with the ticket costing a little over seven dollars. The two and a half hour stop over there allowed me to get out and explore this interesting seaside city before getting back onboard the train for the scenic ride through the heart of Wales. I had read about the beautiful journey between Swansea and Shrewsbury (just back across the border into England) and it was with great anticipation that I returned to the station after walking around Swansea. The train had already pulled in by the time I got back and a friendly lady who I recognized to be the conductor was standing on the platform. I asked her if she had any suggestions as to which side I should sit on to get the best view of the scenery and was surprised when she offered her recommendations for each leg of the trip.
Swansea, Wales…the Old and the New
Quaint Villages and Lots of Sheep
When the conductor saw me checking out the train, she asked, “You’re not a train buff, by any chance, are you?” When I eagerly replied that I was, she added, “Oh, then you’re really going to enjoy this ride!” We chatted for a few moments until a young man emerged from the train who she introduced as the engineer. They both proceeded to explain that this was going to be a beautiful ride heading north through the Welsh countryside and that we’d see lots of sheep-studded farms, green hillsides and quaint little villages along the way…so quaint that the conductor would have to get out and manually throw the switch to lower the traffic barrier.
Conductor Lowering Traffic Barrier
A Historic Train System
Because it was not a heavily traveled route, there would be stretches where there was only one track for trains going each way. The engineer and conductor explained how they would have to stop and manually insert a set of keys into an antiquated set of locks to insure that no other trains came in the other direction while we were on the track. The conductor said she would let me know when the time came and I could come along with them and see how it was done.
Engineer Explaining Old Train System
Tagging Along with the Engineer and Conductor
Well, as you can imagine, I was in hog heaven for the entire four hour ride, between watching the breathtakingly beautiful scenery passing by outside my window and getting out several times with the engineer and conductor to watch them do their thing! They were so friendly and nice and seemed to enjoy having a passenger who was interested in the operation of the trains. These folks were typical of the entire cadre of train personnel who I encountered on my trip throughout England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland. To a person, they were friendly and helpful and went out of their way to insure that their passengers were safe, comfortable and got the correct ticket at the best price. If you like trains and train travel, be sure to watch the video below. Once you see the beautiful country scenery you’ll want to add this train ride (costing only $23) from Swansea, Wales to Shrewsbury, England to your itinerary!
