How to Take a Train Trip Around Europe Without Spending a Lot

July 9, 2011

An Inexpensive Train Trip Around Europe

Just to show that you, too, can vacation in Europe, taking in some of the most beautiful sights in the world, without spending a lot, I have summarized my itinerary and totaled the expenses for my recent train odyssey around Europe. The details of this fantastic trip have been described in detail in the most recent postings on this website. Looking back, it was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken. I hope this will encourage you to take the plunge and get out there and see this interesting part of the world.

Itinerary

Day 1; Fly from San Francisco, California to Frankfurt, Germany

Day 2: Arrive Frankfurt; take train to Mannheim, Germany

Day 3: Paris, France

Day 4: Bordeaux, France

Day 5: San Sabastian, Spain

Madrid, Spain

Day 6: Barcelona, Spain

Day 7: Marsailles, France

Day 8: Genoa, Italy

Day 9: Monterosso, Italy and the Cinque Terre Hike

Day 10: Rome, Italy, including the Vatican

Day 11: Naples, Italy and Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast

Day 12: Bologna, Italy

Day 13: Innsbruck, Austria

Day 14: Nuremburg, Germany

Day 15: Prague, Czech Republic

Day 16: Berlin, Germany

Day 17: Frankfurt, Germany

Day 18: Fly from Frankfurt, Germany to San Francisco, California

Consider substituting your own destination choices in place of Bordeaux, France, San Sabastian, Spain and Bologna, Italy…perhaps for more time in Rome and Naples, Italy. Remember also that you must be flexible when traveling without reservations. For example, when I couldn’t find lodging in San Sabastian, I went on to Madrid, arriving at 11 PM, and ended up staying up all night partying with the locals. Not in my original plans, but definitely a night to remember!

Summary of Costs

Airfare, San Francisco to Frankfurt, roundtrip $481.50

Found this great deal at www.Kayak.com

Eurail Pass, 15 Day $717.00

Eurail Supplements/Reservations $111.00

Food (most breakfasts included in lodging) $200.00

Average $10.00 per day

Lodging (average $65.00 per night) $1,091.00

Total $2600.50

It’s An Even Better Deal When Two Travel Together!

For a two and a half week trip to Europe, $2600.50 for total expenses is awesome! Remember that when two are traveling together, the second Eurail ticket is less expensive than the first. Also, lodging for two will average less per person than for a single traveler. With a little planning and attention to costs along the way, you, too, can have a great trip like I had without spending a lot.

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Berlin, The Capital of a Unified Germany

1 Comment / June 12, 2011

Berlin, Germany

Rounding out my three week whirlwind circuit around Europe was a quick stop in Berlin, Germany. The enjoyable four hour train ride from Prague to Berlin took us through some beautiful country and the historic city of Dresden along the Elbe River. Ending up in the capital of Germany would put me in a good position to complete the final leg of my trip back to Frankfurt for the flight home. That night in Berlin I stayed at a very nice hotel called Motel One (an ingloriously named chain of budget hotels in Germany) for the equivalent of $107, including a great breakfast.

A Big, But Walkable, City

While reunified Berlin is a huge city, it is still very possible to see a good deal of it on foot. Berlin is actually composed of numerous boroughs or districts, each with its own distinct personality. It is traversed by several famous avenues such as the Kurfurstendamm (known as the Ku’ Damm) and Unter den Linden, both large boulevards lined with historic buildings, chick boutiques and snazzy hotels. Many of the most important sights lie in the Mitte or central part of Berlin, once divided by the infamous wall. Berlin boasts a large zoo, know as a Tiergarten (animal garden), the famous Olympic Stadium of the Nazi era and numerous galleries, museums and cathedrals, such as the Berliner Dom, as well as the Charlottenburg Castle.

The Brandenburg Gate

Perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Berlin is the Brandenburg Gate, dating back to the 1700s when it was built as a symbol of victory by Friedrich Wilhelm II. Located in the center of the city, it once formed part of the Berlin Wall, but has now been returned to its former glory as a symbol of the newly reunited Germany. The Brandenburg Gate is also the sight of one of the most important speeches of the 20^th Century. It was there on June 12, 1987 that U. S. President Ronald Reagan implored Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev to “Tear Down This Wall”!

The Reichstag

Originally opened in 1894, the historic Reichstag building currently houses the reunified German government or Bundestag. A fire in this building in 1933 became the excuse for Adolph Hitler to declare a state of emergency, enabling his Nazi Party to seize control of Germany. In 1997 a glass dome was constructed on the top of the Reichstag, providing visitors with a thrilling 360 degree view of the city below. Best of all, entrance is free!

The Berlin Wall and Check Point Charlie

The construction of the Berlin Wall was instigated by the Soviet Union in 1961 as a way to keep ‘captives’ in East Berlin from escaping to the West. Every student of history will want to visit the last remaining evidence of the Berlin Wall and check out ‘Check Point Charlie’, the best known crossing between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Now a museum, Check Point Charlie (for Check Point ‘C’) was featured in many movies set during the Cold War. Anyone who watched on TV as the young people of Berlin occupied the wall when it finally came down in November 1989 will experience the thrill once again as they visit the actual site.

Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe

The abstract ‘Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe’ which occupies an entire block in the Mitte was opened in 2005. Visitors can walk through an irregular field of concrete slabs designed to give one the feeling of uncertainty, instability and confusion, evoking some of the emotions prevalent during the time of the Holocaust. Beneath the memorial is an information center and Holocaust museum.

Last Stop, Frankfurt

I have shared some of the things I enjoyed most about Berlin, but every visitor to a ‘city of the world’ like this will come away with a different perspective and have their own list of favorites. The morning after my visit to Berlin I ‘completed the circle’ of my 18 day train trip around Europe by returning to Frankfurt Germany. With its central location, great shopping, interesting sights and convenient airport where I would catch my flight home the next day, Frankfurt is one of my favorite ‘gateway cities’ (see our article on Gateway Cities). In my next article I will give a quick round up of this fantastic trip with an overview of the itinerary and total costs, showing that you, too, can see some of the best of Europe without spending a lot.

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Prague, The Czech Republic

May 18, 2011

Does Prague Really Rival Paris?

In a word…Yes! In two words…heck Yes! Don’t get me wrong, I love Paris, which in many ways is incomparable, but if you haven’t been to Prague, then it should be near the top of your list of destinations for your next trip to Europe. It’s easily accessible by train and I had the pleasure of visiting Prague for the third time on my recent circuit around Europe. Considering my great appreciation for this fabulous city, it should be no surprise that I chose a shot of the Charles Bridge and the Old Town for one of the lead pictures on my website (see above). Now you have some idea what’s in store for you when you visit Prague.

Charles Bridge, Prague, Czech Republic — Charles Bridge, Prague

Fun on the Train

The seven hour trek from Nuremberg to Prague was a pleasant reminder of why I love traveling by train. It gave me an opportunity to view some of the most beautiful countryside of Germany and the Czech Republic from the window of the compartment which I shared with a wonderful group of fun loving Germans. Included in my new circle of friends were two young ladies (teachers) heading out for a vacation in Prague with their bicycles who kept us laughing all the way. There was an older German woman who regaled us with tales of her youth during the war years. Rounding out our traveling group was a young businessman, who, along with me, was getting quite a kick out of the ladies. When my new traveling companions found out that I spoke a little German, they insisted that we speak only German for the rest of the trip so that I could brush up on my skills. This turned out to be a great experience for me, especially with two German teachers to tutor me…and I was surprised at how well I did. When we had to switch trains at the border, they all wanted to keep our little group together, so we soon found ourselves in the same compartment again on the next train. Mingling with the locals is one of my favorite things about traveling and in my opinion there is no better way to learn about other cultures and other counties.

I remember once on another trip being on a crowded train going through the beautiful Austrian countryside. Of the six in our compartment there were two American college ‘boys’ traveling together, sitting across from one another in the window seats. I was the only other American in our group and thoroughly enjoyed chatting with the others in the compartment. I watched as one of the non-American passengers tried unsuccessfully several times to engage the American fellows in conversation. They were both reading books (probably about wizards) and not paying any attention even to the beautiful landscape passing by just outside their windows. Each time someone tried to speak to them, they removed their ear buds with a look of slight annoyance and replied, “What?” and then answered in one or two words. What a wasted opportunity!

Sensory Overload

I found a nice place to stay not far from the train station called the Hotel City Inn for $52, including breakfast. I was soon out to conquer the city that rivals Paris on a beautiful afternoon and evening. Prague has a decent metro system, but I found it fairly easy to see most of the sights on foot. The city straddles the Vltava River, a tributary of the Elbe River, with the Old Town (Stare Mesto) on the east side and Prague Castle on the west side. The picturesque Charles Bridge joins the two banks and is probably the most famous landmark, if not the symbol of Prague. Wenceslas Square on the east side near the train station is in the New Town and comprises the commercial center of Prague.

It could take forever to make the short walk cross the Charles Bridge, which is only open to pedestrians, due to the crowds of tourists taking in the stellar views and the many artisans selling their wares along the way, but most of all because you don’t want the experience to end. Once on the other side, it is a good hike up the hill to the Prague Castle, but well worth it for the view looking back down on the bridge and the Old Town. Back on the other bank, the Old Town Square is the main center of activity and the location of many of the important landmarks. A visit at night under the stars and lights is a visual delight. The Astronomical Clock draws crowds for its hourly show and the spires of the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn form an awesome backdrop. Be sure to save some time to visit the many elegant shops and bring home a piece of Bohemian crystal for which this area is known.

Prague Castle, Czech Republic — Prague Castle Across the Charles River

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Nuremberg, Germany

May 5, 2011

Nuremberg, Germany

Over the years I had passed through Nuremberg, Germany a number of times on the train, but had never stopped to check it out. On this trip I finally disembarked for an overnight visit and found out what I had been missing all those times before. Nuremberg is a historic city with a beautifully preserved, walled ‘old town’ (altstadt) that should not be missed. The main entrance to the old town is just a short walk from the train station and there are numerous hotels and pensions available there, accommodating a wide range of budgets. In a very short time I found a great little place called Pension Altstadt for the equivalent of $46 with shared bath, including a wonderful breakfast served in a quaint Fruhstuck Zimmer (breakfast room). It was great to be back in one of my favorite countries where the friendly people always make me feel at home.

An Awesome Rock Festival

As I arrived at the train station that afternoon, I was nearly trampled by hoards of young people who were leaving town after attending the ‘Rock im Park’ Festival held in Nuremberg the first week in June each year. I had noticed as the train approached the city center that every piece of open land, whether it was a park or an empty lot, seemed to have been the recent site of a makeshift campground. Abandoned tents and lawn chairs were everywhere and workers could be seen cleaning up after the revelers. It must have been an awesome rock festival! I was definitely going against the flow as I tried to get out of the train station, but I was soon at the gates of the old town, about to enter another world altogether. Situated on the Pegnitz River, Nuremberg dates back to the 11^th century. There are many interesting sights to behold in this amazing Bavarian city, but two are essential for any student of history.

Aftermath of the Nuremberg Rock Festival

Terror

A short ride on Tram #9 from the train station will take you to the infamous stadium (1) where the Nazi rallies were held in the 1930’s. You can actually stand at the podium right where Hitler stood as he spoke to the assembled masses. It was an eerie feeling to stand at that podium, which I had seen in photos and movie clips so many times before, looking down at the same place where thousands of people once stood in formation as they listened to their fist pounding leader all those years ago. But this time, the stadium was filled with the camping debris left by the German youths of a new century who had just attended the Rock Festival. It was gratifying to see that the purpose of the stadium had changed so dramatically for the good in the interim.

Congress Hall, the Nazi's Biggest Building — Congress Hall, the Nazi’s Biggest Building

And Justice

A brisk walk from the old town in the other direction will take you to the Palace of Justice (2) where, in Room 600 during the Nuremberg trials, justice was meted out to the high ranking Nazis who had delivered their diatribes from the nearby stadium and who had wreaked havoc on Europe before and during World War II. At the time of my visit the court room was not open to visitors while it was being readied for the 65^th anniversary of the Nuremberg trials. You can be sure it will be at the top of my list on my next visit to this area. Someday I would also love to come for the annual Toy Fair held in February and for the Christmas Market held in the old town each December. And who knows, maybe I’ll come back just for the ‘Rock im Park’ festival one of these years!

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Innsbruck, Austria

April 21, 2011

Innsbruck, Austria, Nestled in the Tyrolean Alps

After a breathtakingly beautiful train ride through the Dolomites of Northern Italy, I crossed the border into Austria and arrived in Innsbruck on a late Sunday afternoon in June. Innsbruck, site of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, is a lovely small city nestled in the Tyrolean Alps on the Inn River. ‘Brucke’ means bridge in German, thus Innsbruck means ‘bridge over the Inn River’. In no time I found a nice pension (Pension Stoi) not far from the train station for the equivalent of $58, including private bath. Innsbruck is an easily walkable ‘town’ and after a quick rest, I was on my way to the Altstadt or Old Town along the river where I would soon be treated to a surprise.

Tyrolean Alps Surrounding Innsbruck on the Inn River

The Old Town

The colorful Baroque architecture of Innsbruck dates back to the Hapsburg Dynasty and includes two special churches, Dom St. Jakob and the Hofkirche, as well as the Hofburg or summer home of the Hapsburgs. Perhaps the most famous sight in the Altstadt is the Golden Roof, a gold balcony honoring Hapsburg Emperor, Maximilian I. The Ambras Castle in the hills above Innsbruck will have to wait until my next visit. Built by Archduke Ferdinand II, it houses many valuable collections of art and other memorabilia from the Hapsburg Dynasty.

A Special Treat

As I was taking in the splendor of these surroundings, mingling with the friendly, local people and not knowing where to look next, I heard the faint sound of a large brass band off in the distance. It suddenly grew louder as the parade rounded a corner and entered the main street of the Altstadt, heading right in my direction. Soon the main square was filled with a marching band and dancers of all ages, each in traditional folk dress, regaling the delighted tourists with about 45 minutes of entertainment before marching off again into the distance. It was one of those treats that all travelers hope for, a glimpse of local culture, and it will forever be one of the highlights of my world travels. Innsbruck was like being at Disneyland, except it was the real thing!

You’ll Enjoy This Video of a Tyrolean Marching Band and Dancers

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San Diego, California

1 Comment / April 13, 2011

The Other Southern California City

Rather than being thought of as that other Southern California destination, San Diego should be at the top of your list when visiting the lower half of the Golden State. It has long been one of my favorite cities and I am fortunate to be close enough to get there at least once a year to take in its many beautiful sights and interesting destinations. Surrounded by inland mountains, rugged canyons, nearby high desert and beautiful rock-studded hills rolling down to sandy beaches, there is no question that you are in the midst of a unique landscape while in the San Diego area. The city is also blessed with an incredible natural bay and a coastline that rivals any in the world for beauty.

Mexican Food and Indian Casinos

Perhaps best known for its famous zoo at Balboa Park, San Diego has many other attractions that make the 120 mile trip (two hours drive time) south of Los Angeles worth the effort. The Historic Old Town State Park and Mission San Diego give visitors a glimpse into the past and a delightful taste of the Spanish influence that pervades much of California. Old Town features many well-preserved historic buildings and numerous restaurants with authentic Mexican food and Mariachi bands that will instantly get you into that special mood unique to Southern California. At least three nearby Indian casinos that rival Las Vegas (which by the way is only a 330 mile, five hour drive away) will give you a chance to double your money at the same time as you experience a real live Indian Reservation. A short trolley car ride twenty miles south of the city will land you at the U.S.-Mexican border, where you can follow the crowds and gingerly walk across the border so that you can say that you’ve been to Mexico! But be sure to take your passport. We do not recommend going beyond the border area at this time due to the current safety issues in Mexico.

San Diego Attractions

Very much a Navy town, San Diego is also home to the Marine Corps Recruit Depot and several other major military bases. The military presence is most evident around San Diego Bay and even after just a quick visit you will agree that San Diego does more than its share to help keep American safe. You will instantly recognize the historic Hotel Del Coronado on Coronado Island, having seen it many times in travel magazines and posters or movies such as ‘Some Like It Hot’. The San Diego region is also home to a couple of world class universities, several of which have been pioneers in scientific (especially medical) research. The arts are very much alive in San Diego, with numerous museums and galleries sprinkled throughout the area and many opportunities to experience the performing arts, as well. Downtown you will find the enormous Convention Center, Little Italy with its wonderful restaurants, the colorful shops at Seaport Village, and the historic Gas Lamp District.

Beaches and Mountains

Don’t forget to visit Sea World where you can have an up close and personal encounter with dolphins and watch the Shamu killer whale show. Oh, and be sure to take your swim gear and sun lotion so you can lie out on the pure white sand at nearby Ocean Beach and Pacific Beach. For a spectacular bird’s eye view of San Diego, take a short drive out to suburban La Mesa and hike to the top of Cowles Mountain. A fairly easy 1.5 mile climb, it should only take a couple hours up and back for anyone in reasonably good physical condition. Kids will love visiting Legoland, a thirty mile drive north in Carlsbad, and golfers will enjoy visiting the Lawrence Welk Resort, thirty miles north in Escondido.

La Jolla Cove

One essential stop anytime I visit San Diego is La Jolla Cove, just north of the city. Street parking is free and you can window shop as you walk past art galleries, beautiful shops and historic hotels on your way down to the park overlooking the cove. There you will find a special beach that has been set aside as a sea lion rookery, where humans can get fairly close to these amazing creatures from the sea. One could spend hours watching the pups snuggling up to their mothers or the adolescents frolicking in the water or the big fat ‘Jabba the Hut’ look-alikes snoozing on the rocks. For the adventurous visitor, La Jolla Cove is also a great place for kayaking and snorkeling. For the rest of us, just strolling along the walkway overlooking the sea is quite enough. The sights and sounds of the breakers hitting the shore will put you in a trance and deliver you far from the worries of the world.

Accommodations

Accommodations in San Diego run the gamut. You could easily spend hundreds of dollars a night at one of the snazzy hotels downtown, but for value minded travelers there are many other options. There is a great hostel in the Gas Lamp District downtown (see our link to Hostelling International). You can book a bed in one of their dorm rooms for as little as $28.00 a night and easily walk from there to many of the venues in the downtown area. One of my favorite value accommodations in San Diego is the Padre Trail Inn (www.padretrailinn.com) just two blocks from Old Town and the same distance to a major trolley transfer station that can take you almost anywhere for $2.50 one way or $5.00 for an all day trolley/bus pass. My recent stay at the Padre Trail Inn, which I booked directly through their website, cost about $60.00 a night and included a continental breakfast of coffee and muffins. While not fancy, this inn met all of my requirements, including safety, cleanliness, service, convenient location and value…and if that wasn’t enough, their friendly, helpful staff members make it a slam dunk that I’ll book with them again on my next trip back to San Diego. Someday, though, I am going to splurge and stay at least one night at the historic old La Valencia Hotel at the La Jolla Cove!

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