Our midnight transit of the series of locks at the Three Gorges Dam was definitely worth staying up for. It was amazing to see how many ships and boats could be loaded into one lock without colliding with one another. The Three Gorges Dam was completed in May 2006 and is the largest dam in the world. In addition to providing hydroelectric power, the dam has improved navigation on the Yangtze River and will help prevent flooding.
Three Gorges Visitor Center
After a short bus ride from our ship, we arrived at the Visitor Center, which has a large indoor scale model of the dam and locks. The detailed model gives an excellent overview of the entire project, as well as giving one an appreciation for the monumental scope of this undertaking. Outside, visitors can stroll through a beautifully laid out viewing area, where you can look down on the locks, the channel and the dam.
Our second full day on the MV Dragon was our biggest day on the Yangtze River cruise. After a wonderful breakfast we embarked on an optional shore excursion, which I would highly recommend. We visited the White Emperor City or BaiDi Cheng which overlooks the western end of the first of the three gorges that we would transit. The Qutang Gorge is the shortest and narrowest (110m at narrowest point) of the three. It is featured on the ten Yuan note and we had an opportunity to observe the vista immortalized on the currency.
Entrance to Qutang Gorge from White Emperor City
Ten Yuan Note Showing Entrance to Qutang Gorge
The next gorge was the Wu Gorge, which for me was the most spectacular of the three. My neck was sore from looking up at the jagged peaks and the green cliffs that studded the landscape on each side of the river. All the passengers crowded together on the top deck and our cruise director joined us to describe the individual peaks and the many interesting sights along the way.
After lunch we docked at Badong to visit Shennong Stream, a beautiful tributary of the Yangtze. We boarded a smaller ferry-boat like vessel for the long ride up the stream, which got narrower and more beautiful as we progressed. Finally, we reached a small outpost where we got off to board smaller boats which carried about 12 passengers each. This was one of those places where you feel like you are way out in the middle of nowhere, far from civilization. Our boats were propelled by about five men in traditional dress, including loose, baggy shorts, bare chests and bare feet. There were three in the front and two in the back of our boat and we were told that they were poor farmers who had been displaced by the rising water from the dam and that they were very fortunate to have this job. A little farther up this smaller stream, I heard an all-too-familiar ring and was surprised to see one of the oarsmen pull a cell phone out of his baggy pants and proceed to carry on a conversation while he paddled along. So much for being ‘out in the middle of nowhere’! At one point the oarsmen got out and pulled the boat along from shore, demonstrating how it was done in times past. It was a fun excursion and fascinating to see life along this beautiful stream. Sitting right behind the front oarsmen, I got quite a bath from the splashing water and was glad to take a hot shower when I got back to the ship.
Small Boats on Shennong Stream
To be perfectly honest, there were a few disappointments on the Yangtze River cruise. One was that we did not get to visit the Three Little Gorges on the Daning River and another was that much of the transit of the third and final Xiling Gorge took place in the dim light of the evening. And finally, the transit through the locks of the Three Gorges Dam took place at midnight, but I did get up to watch part of it along with several other dedicated travelers on the ship.
The locks were very impressive and it took about four hours to get through the entire series of them. We awakened the next morning on the lower side of the dam and after breakfast boarded buses to take the short ride to the observation area of the dam. From there we could get a good idea of the monumental scope of this project. We started by visiting a huge model of the dam, which gave a good overview, and then actually looking down on the locks and the dam itself. We returned to the ship for the short transit of the lower portion of Xiling Gorge below the dam. It was a bittersweet time, because my 300 new friends and I would soon be disembarking from the MV Dragon and going our separate ways.
It was a welcome break in the middle of a busy trip and somewhat of a luxury for me to have three nights and four days floating down the Yangtze River without having to worry about finding a place to stay for the night or deciding where to eat. The hotel had booked me on the MV Dragon (and from my Navy days, I knew that MV stood for Motor Vessel) for the equivalent of $556.00. I had checked one local travel agency and two online travel sites before my trip and knew right away that I’d saved a lot of money by waiting to book the cruise until I arrived in Chongqing. The MV Dragon definitely lived up to its reputation as a five star cruise ship and its dragon-like appearance established it as a familiar sight along the Yangtze. I had a nice room with private bath and balcony all to myself and the three delicious meals each day provided more food than I could possibly eat.
My Stateroom on the MV Dragon
Out of about 300 guests I was the only Caucasian, and once again, I felt like a celebrity. Both the crew and guests knocked themselves out to be friendly and everyone wanted to meet me and get to know me. I found it nearly impossible to pay for my own beer, because everyone wanted to treat me. Most of the other guests were middle class Chinese couples and families with a number of young adventurers mixed in. By the end of the cruise I felt like I had made 300 new friends! One of the most interesting encounters was meeting an older gentleman at my table who had been a pilot in the Red Chinese Air Force. As a Naval Officer, I had been on the opposite side during the Cold War, and now we were sitting down at the table together as friends.
The MV Dragon on the Yangtze River
The cruise started at 6 PM on the evening of June 2 and the skyline of Chongqing was spectacular from the river. I stayed up late on the top deck with some of the other guests I had already met, watching the lights on shore go by as we steamed silently through the night. The next day we made our first stop to visit Fengdu, known as the City of Ghosts. That evening the crew put on a show and the main cruise director, Jerry, blew everyone away with his rendition of “I Love You More Than I Can Say”. Jerry was a young Chinese man who already seemed to run everything on the ship and was obviously also loaded with talent, like so many of the young people I met on my trip. The next morning we would begin our transit of the Three Gorges, so it was early to bed for me that night.
Chongqing City Skyline from the MV Dragon on the Yangtze River
The stand out hotel of my 19 day trip to China in May/June of 2010 was definitely the Hongyadong Hotel in Chongqing City. This four star hotel was conveniently located within walking distance of the main sights of the city and had an English speaking staff who could not have been more accommodating. For the equivalent of Fifty U.S. dollars, I got a beautiful room with a balcony overlooking the Jialing River and a sumptuous breakfast the next morning in an elegant dining room.
Hotel Room BalconyView From Hotel Room Balcony
My room was beautifully appointed with classic Chinese furniture and had a marble bathroom that would please an emperor. Best of all there was a travel agency on site that was able to book me on a four day Yangtze River cruise beginning the next day. Definitely consider this hotel if you are visiting Chongquing City. Address: Hongyadong Hotel, 56 Cangbai Lu
My Hotel RoomBathroom at the Hongyadong HotelRoom Amenities at the Hongyadong HotelGourmet Breakfast
This time I booked a ‘soft sleeper’ on the night train from Xian to Chongqing. The 12 hour trip cost the equivalent of forty US dollars and I felt safe and comfortable the entire time. One quickly learns the different types of seating available on the trains in China, listed here in order of increasing cost:
1) Hard Seat: the cheapest, but not for the faint of heart. Best way to really meet the locals.
2) Soft Seat: which I found very adequate on my trip from Beijing to Xian.
3) Hard Sleeper: has open bay carriages with 6 bunks, used by many backpackers.
4) Soft Sleeper: the way to go! Four bunks in a closed compartment with a mattress, clean sheets and pillows.
Soft Sleeper
I actually felt refreshed when I arrived in Chongqing early the next morning. It was raining and since it is a very hilly city, I did something I rarely do. I took a taxi. For about $1.50 (and tipping is not expected in China) I got from the train station into town. Needless to say, I took a lot more taxis after that! A very pleasant lady taxi driver read the address written in Chinese characters from the Lonely Planet tour guide and delivered me directly to the hotel that I had picked out ahead of time.
The hotel was dark inside and I was soon told that all the electricity was out and they could not take any new guests. I strapped my backpack back on and headed up the street looking for more hotels, like I’ve done so many times before. But this turned out to be one of those fortuitous situations when what seemed like bad luck actually worked out in my favor. Just down the street I walked into the Hongyadong Hotel and got a first class room for the equivalent of $50.00! This turned out to be the stand-out hotel of my trip, which I will be featuring in a separate entry. I had a room with a balcony overlooking the river, a beautiful marble bathroom, elegant traditional Chinese furniture and a gourmet breakfast in the morning. And best of all, they had a travel agent at the hotel who was able to book me on a Yangtze River cruise the next day!
The Confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers in Chongqing, China.
Chongqing is quite a beautiful city, built on the confluence of the Jialing and Yangtze Rivers. It is famous for its mountainous terrain and a local dish called hotpot, spiced with chilies. The neon-lit night skyline is quite impressive, especially when seen from the river. Historically, Chongqing was the headquarters for General Joseph Stilwell and the Kuomintang during World War II.
Chongqing Night Skyline
After getting settled in, I walked all over town, exploring the shops and small alleys and the promenade along the rivers. I came upon a Hostelling International hostel overlooking the river and went in to check it out. After showing my membership card, they let me use their computer to check email and write home…free! Another reason to join HI (see links)! Shop keeping is king in China and I made an interesting observation in Chongqing, which seemed to be the norm for cities throughout China. It seems that all the independent shops specializing in a specific item were grouped together on one street. The following photo shows what must have been ‘fan street’. Wish I had had more time to explore, but my cruise ship was leaving the next day.
