The 25th Anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall
The entire free world is celebrating with Germany this week as they commemorate the 25th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Watching the joyful celebrations must send a chill up the spines of those who watched on TV that wonderful day in 1989 as young Germans climbed the wall and chipped away at this wretched symbol of communism. The peaceful reunification of East and West after the wall came down is a tribute to the leaders this great country and a testament to the desire for peace by all Germans. The people, culture, history and sights of Germany have made it one of the greatest countries in today’s world…and one of my favorite places to visit!
The Brandenburg Gate, Berlin, GermanyCheckpoint Charlie, Berlin Wall Crossing
Just a few months before the Russian invasion of Ukraine, I took a three week, independent rail and bus journey through Western Russia and Ukraine. This fabulous trip began and ended respectively in the gateway cities of Helsinki, Finland and Kiev, Ukraine. In between, I visited the Russian cities of St. Petersburg, Moscow, Saratov, Volgograd, Astrakhan on the Caspian Sea and Rostov on Don before heading west into Ukraine to visit the cities of Yalta and Odessa on the Black Sea and Kiev on the Dnieper River.
The Medieval Town of Porvoo, Finland
Three Countries, Three Seas, Three Rivers
I learned that train travel in Russia, while safe and reliable, could be painfully slow. At times I literally wanted to get out and push the train to make it go faster when there was no apparent reason for it to be going so slowly. Fourteen hour bus trips were the norm. But these protracted sojourns gave me a wonderful opportunity to meet and get to know the friendly folks in Finland, Russia and Ukraine. Even with this fast paced trip covering a huge territory, there was still plenty of time to explore the Baltic Sea, the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. And I was able to check off one of my bucket list items by dipping my toes in the Volga, the Don and the Dnieper Rivers along the way.
The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia
City by City Itinerary
1) Helsinki, Finland (3 nights)
-arrived by plane from SFO
2) St. Petersburg, Russia (3 nights)
-arrived by train, 5 hours
3) Moscow, Russia (3 nights)
-arrived by train, 4 hours, 45 minutes
4) Saratov, Russia (1 night)
-arrived by overnight train, 15 hours, 30 minutes
5) Volgograd, Russia (1 night)
-arrived by train, 6 hours, 30 minutes
6) Astrakhan, Russia (1 night)
-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes
7) Volgograd, Russia (returned for train connection to Rostov on Don)
-arrived by overnight train, 10 hours
8) Rostov on Don, Russia (1 night)
-arrived by bus, 8 hours
9) Yalta, Ukraine (1 night)
-arrived by overnight bus via Simferopol, 14 hours, 20 minutes
10) Odessa, Ukraine (transfer to train)
-arrived by overnight bus, 14 hours
11) Kiev, Ukraine (2 nights)
-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes
Yalta on the Crimean Coast of the Black Sea in Ukraine
A Whirlwind Trip!
As you can see, this was not a trip for the faint at heart. It required sticking to a rigorous schedule, with many long hours on trains and buses, but it enabled me to see some fabulous places that tourists may not have an opportunity to see again for quite some time. Within months of returning from my trek through this area, Russia invaded the Crimean region of Ukraine, which it has occupied since. Russian troops are still marshaled on the border in the Rostov region of Russia. Within the same period of time, the train station in Volgograd, where I made several connections, was bombed by terrorists. Yet, I would not have wanted to miss this chance to explore Russia and the Ukraine and to meet the wonderful people who reside in these two counties. To a person, they were friendly, welcoming and interested in the American visitor traveling solo through their homeland. Stay tuned for lots more information about traveling through Russia in future articles on your favorite travel blog, Blue Orb Travel.
Perchersk Lavra Monastery on the Dnieper River in Kiev, Ukraine
Straddling one of America’s major thoroughfares, Elko is a great place to stop on Interstate 80 between Reno, Nevada and Salt Lake City, Utah. Elko is a friendly ‘cowboy town’, so don’t be surprised when you’re greeted with a pleasant ‘hello’ by strangers passing on the street. Elko County is the third largest ranching county in the United States and is known for raising grass-fed calves. Bing Crosby had several ranches here where he enjoyed relaxing and getting away from the bright lights of Hollywood. In fact, Bing was honorary mayor of Elko until his death in 1977. Elko was settled by cattlemen and sheep herders in the mid-1800s and lies on the Humboldt River, the Immigrant Trail and the Transcontinental Railroad. Many of the first settlers in Elko were Basques from the Pyrenees region between France and Spain and their influence is still very much present in the region, especially in the many fine Basque restaurants to be found in Elko.
Elko County Ranchlands with Ruby Mountains in BackgroundRanch in Elko County, Nevada
What to See and Do
Whenever I’m near Elko, my favorite side trip is to drive about 20 miles south through the rich, beautiful ranchlands of Spring Valley on the Lamoille Highway (227) heading toward the Ruby Mountains. On the way I stop at the picturesque town of Lamoille, basically a one street hamlet lined with cute little houses and a couple of unique hometown restaurants. There’s a special treat waiting for you at the end of the road…a beautiful little church that looks like it should be a scene on a Christmas card! Continuing south from the town of Lamoille you will come to Lamoille Canyon, one of several glacier carved canyons extending up into the ‘Rubies’, as they are called. This stunningly beautiful region seems to be known only to locals, but is a must see for anyone who enjoys the mountains. And it’s an ideal place for hiking, picnicking and camping, too. Back in the city of Elko, there are several museums chronicling the frontier history of the area. Right on Idaho Street, the main drag, be sure to stop at the Visitors Center and the Northeastern Nevada Museum. About eight miles west of Elko on Interstate 80 is the California Trail Interpretive Center, where there is no admission fee to visit the indoor and outdoor exhibits highlighting the history of the immigrant trail in the northern Nevada region.
Little Church of the Crossroads, Lamoille, NevadaLamoille Canyon in the Ruby Mountains
Where to Stay and Eat
There are many fine accommodations in Elko, running the gamut from budget motels to elegant hotels with flashy casinos. Whenever I’m in the area I stay at the Click for Contact Information, because it’s centrally located, has reasonable rates and comes with an excellent breakfast. And if you’re traveling with an RV, there are a number of good RV parks right in town. If you savor food from south of the border I can recommend a great little Mexican restaurant, La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant, on Commercial Street and for a taste of Basque cuisine, try The Star Hotel on Silver Street. Located in a historic, 100 year old property, the dining room serves family style meals with portion sizes that have almost everyone leaving with a doggie bag. Whether you’re just passing through or coming specifically to visit the beautiful high desert country of Northern Nevada, be sure to take time to stop and explore the wonderful little city of Elko.
The California Trail CenterJohn on the Immigrant Trail
The historic mining town of Virginia City, Nevada is a great place to get a glimpse of life in the old west. The nearby Lake Tahoe/ Reno area is one of four side trips within a few hours’ drive from the San Francisco Bay Area that visitors will want to include on their Northern California itinerary. The other three are Yosemite National Park, Carmel-by-the-Sea and, of course, the Wine Country of Napa County.
South Lake Tahoe, California
On a recent camping trip with family and friends to South Lake Tahoe we took a side trip to Virginia City, Nevada. Less than 90 minutes from all the action at Lake Tahoe, the drive took us over the beautiful eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and out into the open desert of Nevada. Once there you’ll find the streets of Virginia City lined with historic buildings such as Pipers Opera House, unique restaurants like the Mustang Ranch Steakhouse and interesting shops with western wear and souvenirs. As you stroll the main street you can watch a Wild West shoot out, stop to sip a sarsaparilla at the Bucket of Blood Saloon and take a gander at a $65,000 gold nugget.
The Main Street of Virginia City, Nevada
Mark Twain Slept Here
After silver was discovered in the Comstock Lode in 1859, Virginia City literally sprang up from the desert, eventually reaching a population of 25,000 at its peak. Plagued by extremes in temperature, devastating fires and declining output from the mines, Virginia City saw its best days come and go in less than 20 years. One of Virginia City’s most famous inhabitants was Samuel Clemens who lived there from 1862 to 1864 and it was there that he first used his more familiar pen name, Mark Twain.
Bucket of Blood Saloon, Virginia City, Nevada
No trip to Virginia City would be complete without a visit to Boot Hill, which is located at the northeast end of town. Wandering among the tombstones you will find everyone from outlaws who were hanged to Civil War Veterans to pioneer families buried here. Speaking of veterans, hats off to Virginia City for honoring its veterans, past and present, with banners on the lamp posts lining the main street!
Boot Hill, Virginia City, Nevada
Planning Your Trip
Coming from the San Francisco Bay Area you will take Interstate 80 East to Sacramento, where you can stop and visit the California state capitol. Continuing east on Highway 50 now, you will enter the foothills made famous by the ‘gold rush’ of 1849. Midway between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe make a pit stop at the town of Placerville for a look at some of the old buildings dating back to the gold rush era. Placerville was originally known as ‘Hangtown’ for the many hangings that took place there during this lawless period in California history. Moving east into the Sierra Nevada Mountains you will eventually descend into the Tahoe Basin, arriving at South Lake Tahoe.
Virginia City, Nevada
The attractions and activities at South Lake Tahoe are limitless and include visits to secluded Fallen Leaf Lake, fabulous Pope Beach with it long stretch of clean, white sand, the historic Baldwin Estate and the casinos at Stateline on the California-Nevada border. Hiking, biking, swimming, boating and fishing are all available here. For campers and glampers, I recommend the nearby Fallen Leaf Lake Campground. So, if you’re fortunate enough to have a few extra days while in Northern California, the Lake Tahoe/ Reno area is a great place to spend it and nearby Virginia City, Nevada will give you a taste of the Wild West.
As if the beautiful city of Siem Reap and the fabulous temples of nearby Angkor Wat weren’t enough, the oasis-like atmosphere of the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was the perfect refuge after a long day. Located within walking distance of all the downtown action, this three star hotel is highly rated by other travel websites and for a good reason. I stayed for two nights in a spacious, elegant room with a balcony and en suite bathroom for just $50 per night…and that included a wonderful buffet breakfast!
Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel, CambodiaFriendly Staff at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
Tranquil Gardens
It was delightful just to walk around the beautifully maintained grounds of the hotel, enjoying the crystal clear pool, the lush gardens and the fish laden koi ponds situated around this tranquil refuge. True to its name, the hotel carried the tropical green theme throughout both the interior and exterior of the facility, from the brightly uniformed, friendly staff to the accents on the comfortable beds. At the entrance of the hotel is a wooden bridge that crosses over a koi pond, welcoming guests into the magnificently marbled, and cool, lobby.
My Room at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelBathroom at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
Great Hotel, Great Value
The Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was a super value and truly one of the best sleeps of my trip through Southeast Asia. It ticked all the boxes when it comes to what I look for in an awesome accommodation. The location could not have been better, the well-informed staff members could not have been more helpful and the amenities could not have been more plentiful. The entire facility was spotlessly clean and guests can rest easily knowing that they are in a safe, secure place. To top it all off, the buffet breakfast was delicious. When you visit Siem Reap, Cambodia and the temples at Angkor Wat you will definitely want to stay at the Seam Reap Evergreen Hotel.
Sparkling Pool at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelKoi Pond at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelBuffet Breakfast at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
The fabulous temple complex known as Angkor Wat has to be near the top of the list of must see destinations for most world travelers. This UNESCO World Heritage Site in Cambodia was without doubt the highlight of my trip to Southeast Asia. Built between 1113 and 1150 as a Hindu temple, by the following century it had become primarily a Buddhist shrine and it remains so today. As the largest religious monument in the world it has become a major tourist attraction, drawing close to one million international visitors each year. In the Khmer language, Angkor Wat means ‘City of Temples’ which aptly describes this vast collection of shrines. Angkor Wat actually refers to the main temple located on 500 acres and surrounded by a moat. The other most-visited sites in this area include Angkor Thom with the Bayon Temple and Ta Prohm with its famous tree roots engulfing part of the structure, a now familiar sight that was featured in the movie, Tomb Raider.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Getting the Most Out of Your Visit to Angkor Wat
One could spend weeks exploring the temples, admiring the architecture and studying the history contained within the 154 square mile Angkor Archeological Park. Whether you purchase a one day, three day or seven day pass, I recommend hiring an experienced tuk-tuk driver to guide you around the main sites. Your driver will also be able to transport you between Siem Reap, where you will most likely be staying, and Angkor Wat, which is about three and a half miles away. Your driver will also know the way around the park and can take you to the main temples, according to the amount of time you have. For $40 I hired ‘Baby’ to be my tuk-tuk driver for two days. He drove me out to the main entrance around 4:30 PM the day before my main visit where I purchased a one day ticket for $20. The ticket was good for a quick preview that evening and all the next day. Baby gave me a tour of the city of Siem Reap that evening and then picked me up at my hotel at 8 AM the next morning for a full day tour of the temple complex.
Ta Prohm Temple, CambodiaThe Bayon Temple at Angkor Thom
Siem Reap
How could you not love a town that has a ‘Pub Street’! Siem Reap literally means ‘Defeat of Siam’, which refers to the ancient rivalry between Cambodia and Thailand. It has now become a sprawling little city with its growth largely due to its proximity to Angkor Wat. For most visitors to the region, Siem Reap will be your jumping off spot for your visit to the temples. With this perfect combination of town and temples, you can enjoy a vigorous exploration of Angkor Wat during the heat of the day and then cool off with the thriving night life of Siem Reap during the evening. The colonial architecture of Siem Reap reflects the French influence that began around the turn of the 20th century. The town is now a tourist magnet replete with modern hotels, quaint restaurants, markets, shops and, yes, pubs!
Pub Street in Siem Reap, CambodiaSiem Reap, Cambodia at Dusk
Getting There and Beyond
I was able to arrange a minivan ride at the City Center Hotel in Phnom Penh going to Siem Reap. The five hour ride was marred only by an incident where the young lady sitting across the aisle from me held out a bag and invited me to help myself to what she was eating. When it turned out to be fried crickets, all the passengers on the bus had a good laugh when they saw the expression on my face. This funny episode turned out to be an ‘icebreaker’ and gave me an opportunity to meet more of the friendly people of Cambodia, some of whom are now Facebook friends. My Phnom Penh tuk-tuk driver, Curly, had arranged for his friend, Baby, to meet me at the bus stop in Siem Reap. Baby drove me in his tuk-tuk to the fabulous Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel, which would be my home for the next three days as I explored Angkor Wat and Siem Reap. Be sure to check out our full report on this wonderful hotel in the next posting. At the conclusion of my visit to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, the hotel was able to book me on a bus to Bangkok, Thailand for $12. Imaging traveling on a nice bus from one country to another for $12! Alas, my three week trek through Southeast Asia would come to a close with the long flight home from Bangkok to San Francisco.
French Fried Crickets on a Bus! My Tuk-Tuk Driver at Angkor Wat
