John in Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An, Vietnam

Centerpiece of Vietnam

          Located midpoint between Hanoi in the north and Saigon in the south, Hoi An is an ancient city that is on the bucket list of most visitors to Southeast Asia.  This picturesque little hamlet dates back to the 1500s when it was an important trading port, accounting for the obvious influence of Chinese and Japanese merchants apparent in the splendid architecture throughout the town.  The pleasant overnight train from Hanoi to Da Nang took almost 20 hours and cost about $45, which included a comfortable bed with sheets provided.  The ride took us through some beautiful country and provided plenty of time to relax and meet some of my fellow travelers.  We arrived in Da Nang around 3 PM the following day and I took a taxi to Hoi An for about $16.  The 20 mile drive took us past the famous China Beach area and the Marble Mountains.  When I asked the taxi driver for a recommendation, he took me to the Phuoc An Hotel, which turned out to be an excellent place to stay.  The hotel came with a bicycle and I was soon out riding around Hoi An with the big boys!

John in Hoi An, Vietnam
John in Hoi An, Vietnam

UNESCO World Heritage Site

          Even if your hotel doesn’t come with a bicycle, Hoi An is an easily walkable town for reasonably fit travelers.  Most of the important sights can be seen in a day, including museums, historic old homes, assembly halls and temples, most notably the Quan Cong Temple.  Two of my favorite sites were the Japanese Covered Bridge and the Central Market.  The shopping in Hoi An is to die for and bargain hunters will find they don’t have enough room in their packs to bring home everything they would like to purchase.  It’s especially fun to walk along the Thu Bon River promenade in the evening, enjoying the beautiful panoply of lights that illuminate this little burg on both sides of the water.  It is in this heavenly setting that you must make a momentous decision…from among the many, delightful and inexpensive cafes and restaurants, which will you choose as a place to sit and relax and have your dinner, all the while taking in the ambience of this other-worldly place.

 

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Karst Formations, Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Descending Dragon Bay

          During your trip to Hanoi, Vietnam be sure to set aside one day to visit Halong Bay, which literally means ‘descending dragon bay’.  When you get there you’ll see why.  The unique panorama that awaits you is characterized by hundreds of limestone karst formations protruding from the water in a stunningly beautiful array.  There are many tour operators who will pick you up right at your hotel in the city for the 80 mile drive to the Gulf of Tonkin where this UNESCO World Heritage Site is located.  The two hour ride will take you through some beautiful scenery and give you a taste rural life in Vietnam.

Karst Formations, Halong Bay, Vietnam
Limestone Karst Formations, Halong Bay, Vietnam

          For about $50 I joined a tour with a great group of folks from all over the world.  I was picked up right in front of the Hoa Binh Hotel at 8:30 AM and delivered back there 12 hours later.  The package included a wonderful tour of the bay, lunch on the boat, a visit to a floating fishing village, a ride on the bamboo boats taking us through a cave into an open lagoon and a visit to the magnificent Thien Cung Cave.  Halong Bay, Vietnam was definitely one of the highlights of my sojourn through Southeast Asia and you won’t want to miss it while you’re in this part of the world.

John Taking a Break, Halong Bay, Vietnam
John Taking a Break, Halong Bay, Vietnam

 

 

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The Huc Bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi, Vietnam

Capital City of Vietnam

          Whatever preconceived notions you may have about Hanoi, you are bound to be both surprised and delighted by the capital city of Vietnam.  With numerous lakes, temples and historic sites to explore, adventurous travelers will find plenty here to keep them occupied for several days.  French and Vietnamese cuisine abound and the reasonable price of dining in Hanoi is certain to please the value minded traveler.  While experiencing this beautiful city with all four senses, you will also have an opportunity to meet a few of the more than six million friendly inhabitants who will go out of their way to help you.  And let’s not forget that Hanoi is the gateway to Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that you will not want to miss during your visit to Vietnam.

The Huc Bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam
The Huc Bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam

Hoan Kiem Lake

          My walking tour of Hanoi began after a wonderful breakfast at the Hoa Binh Hotel where I was staying.  Hoan Kiem Lake or Sword Lake is just a short walk from the hotel near the historic Old Quarter.  The lake is one of the major attractions in Hanoi and a great place to mingle with the locals.

The Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam
The Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

  The Hanoi Hilton

          The Hanoi Railway Station is also close to the hotel and just a few blocks from there is the infamous Hoa Lo Prison or Hanoi Hilton.  Built by the French in the 1880s, the prison name translates roughly to ‘Hell’s hole’.  For about $1 you can tour the prison complex and see where American POWs were held during the Vietnam War.

The Hanoi Hilton or Hoa Lo Prison
The Hanoi Hilton or Hoa Lo Prison

The Presidential Palace

          A bit farther west you will come to a clustering of important sites, including the Presidential Palace, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the One Pillar Pagoda and the B-52 crash site.  Built for the French Governor-General of Indochina, the Presidential Palace typifies European architecture of the early 1900s.  When Vietnam achieved its independence from France in 1954, Ho Chi Minh lived in a simple stilt house on the grounds, rather than moving into the nearby palace.

The Presidential Palace of Vietnam in Hanoi
The Presidential Palace of Vietnam in Hanoi

The Ho Chi MinhMausoleum

          Adjacent to the Presidential Palace is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which is set back on a huge open area known as Ba Dinh Square.  The square is reminiscent of Tiananmen Square in Beijing, but is nearly deserted in comparison.  The structure of the tomb is based on Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow, but much larger.  It is only open for visitors from 8 to 11 AM a few days a week.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi, Vietnam
Throngs of Visitors Crowd into Ba Dinh Square for a Glimpse of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

The One Pillar Pagoda

          In the same vicinity as the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum you will find the One Pillar Pagoda.  This Buddhist temple built in 1049 is one of the most frequently visitied sites in Hanoi.  Symbolizing a lotus blossom rising from a muddy pond, this temple is a perfect place for reflection and peaceful meditation.

The One Pillar Pagoda, Hanoi, Vietnam
The One Pillar Pagoda in Hanoi

The B-52 Crash Site

          In 1972, towards the end of the Vietnam War, an American B-52 bomber was shot down over Hanoi.  It crashed into Hun Tiep Lake, where it has remained for more than 40 years.  The wreckage can still be seen protruding from a small moss covered pond in the midst of the urban area west of Ba Dinh Square.  Be prepared for a difficult time locating this iconic symbol of the war, but then wandering through the back alleys and asking the locals for directions is all part of the experience…and getting a glimpse of the historic sites, beautiful scenery and friendly people of Hanoi, Vietnam is a delightful experience that should be on every traveler’s bucket list.

B-52 Crash Site in Hun Tiep Lake, Hanoi
B-52 Crash Site in Hun Tiep Lake, Hanoi

 

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The Hoa Binh Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam

The Hoa Binh Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam

Hoa Binh Hotel

          After looking at all the available travel books before my trip I selected Frommer’s Southeast Asia guidebook for my source of travel information while exploring this fascinating region of the world.  It turned out to be an excellent choice and it was among their hotel recommendations that I found the Hoa Binh Hotel in Hanoi, Vietnam.  My two nights at this moderately priced three star hotel   could not have been more pleasant and I can highly recommend it to anyone visiting the capital city of Vietnam.  Built in 1926, this architecturally beautiful hotel is ideally located in the old French Quarter of central Hanoi, within walking distance of most of the major attractions, including the train station and Hoan Kiem Lake.  Only the most jaded traveler would fail to be impressed with the grand staircase just off the main lobby.

An Awesome Accommodation 

          The Hoa Binh Hotel boasts 103 guest rooms and suites and combines the old world charm of colonial Vietnam with all the modern amenities required by the discriminating business or leisure traveler.  My room with en suite bathroom was large, clean and comfortable and included a television, air conditioning, fridge and internet, not to mention the impressive crown molding details.  The hotel also has Wi-Fi availability.  The reasonable price of $65 per night included a wonderful buffet breakfast and daily fruit basket and tea tray in the room.  The staff at the hotel were friendly and helpful and easy to communicate with in English.  I was able to have my laundry done while I was there and the front desk travel clerk was able to book me on a tour of Halong Bay for the day after I arrived.  The Hoa Binh Hotel met all my criteria for an Awesome Accommodation, including value for the money, excellent location, friendly, helpful staff, cleanliness, safety and comfort.  Be sure to check it out on your next trip to Hanoi.

    

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Friendly Boys in Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi Airport Shuffle

Bus and Taxi Passengers Beware

          Arranging the 45 minute ride from the Hanoi International Airport into the city looked at first like it would be a slam dunk, but turned out to be the only negative experience on my entire visit to this beautiful country.  After a short, pleasant flight from Luang Prabang, Laos I landed around 5 PM at the modern Hanoi Noi Bai Airport.  I quickly cleared customs with my prearranged visa and was able to change some money before making my way outside where several buses were waiting to take visitors into town for a small fee.  The bus I selected had several people already on board and the driver indicated he would be leaving momentarily.  After waiting about twenty minutes we realized that he was out looking for more passengers and probably wouldn’t be leaving until he filled the bus.  Four of us decided to share a cab instead and were soon heading into the city for a predetermined fee of $6 each.

Hanoi Noi Bai International Airport
Hanoi Noi Bai International Airport

Taxi Shenanigans

          I had decided to try the Hoa Binh Hotel based on a good review from Frommer’s Southeast Asia guide book and told the driver that was where I wanted to be dropped off.  Everything was going fine as we let the first and second passengers off at their hotels…and then came my turn.  The driver suddenly demanded quite a bit more money than we had agreed upon and when I protested he threatened to call the police, taking out his cell phone to make his point.  I stood my ground and handed him six dollars, all the while wondering if I would end up staying at the Hanoi Hilton that night, instead.  He backed off when I said we would have the concierge at the hotel help us resolve the situation.  The remaining passenger was a young lady who looked nervous about continuing on alone with this driver and I suggested that she get out, pay him off and get another taxi…which she did.  I stayed with her until the disagreeable cab driver was gone and she was safely ensconced in another taxi.  Lesson learned…in Hanoi, best stick to the taxi companies recommended in your guide book and beware of the shenanigans some of the less scrupulous drivers might try to pull.

Friendly Boys in Hanoi, Vietnam
The Friendly People of Vietnam…Boys in Hanoi

Friendly People, Beautiful Places

          As luck would have it, there was a nice room available for me at the Hoa Binh Hotel for $65 a night with breakfast, so I booked it for two nights.  It was an elegant, historic old hotel in a perfect location near the train station and within walking distance of many of the major sights.  By now it was nearly 7 PM, but the hotel reception was still able to book me a seat on a tour to Halong Bay for the next day.  Future postings will feature a full report on my visit to this World Heritage Site, as well as a detailed review of the Hoa Binh Hotel.  After a rocky introduction to Vietnam, the rest of my time in this wonderful country was filled with friendly people and beautiful places.  Be sure to join me on my journey from Hanoi in the north to Saigon in the South with a stop at Hoi An right in the middle.

Halong Bay, Vietnam
Beautiful Places of Vietnam…Halong Bay
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