Northern California Gems
From the historic gold laden foothills to the alpine lakes and forests of the high country, there are countless places of interest to visit in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Northern California. Whether you enjoy recreation, sightseeing, relaxing or all of the above you will want to include a trek to this beautiful part of God’s creation on your next visit to the Golden State. Join us as we explore four treasures of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in Northern California. Yosemite and Lake Tahoe are the two well known crown jewels of the Sierras and, while Bishop and Lake Alpine may have fewer visitors, we’re sure you’ll want to know more about them, too. All four of these gems are an easy drive from San Francisco and well worth the trip.
Yosemite National Park
Arguably the premier national park in the United States, if not the world,Yosemite National Park is a destination that every traveler should have on their list of must see places. To suit all manner of tastes, accommodations in Yosemite run the gamut from ‘tenting on the old campground’ to a $500 room at the elegant Ahwahnee Hotel. Whichever you choose, once you’re settled in and have stopped gasping at the breathtaking scenery you can begin exploring this magnificent valley. A river runs through it and at some point you should plan to float down the Merced River on a rented raft. Along the way you’ll pass Yosemite Falls, the highest waterfall in North America and sixth highest in the world, and El Capitan, one of the world’s largest granite monoliths and a favorite of extreme rock climbers. Bring your binoculars so you can look for them ascending the sheer face of this famous mountain. Later as you explore the valley by car you’ll want to visit the base of Bridal Veil Falls and Yosemite Falls, both of which are easily accessible on foot. History buffs won’t want to miss the Miwok/Paiute Indian Village, the Indian Caves and the several museums located in the valley. A visit to Camp Curry, the original camp established at the foot of Glacier Point in 1899 and now a hub of activity is a great way to end the day.
Hikers usually congregate at Happy Isles before heading up this part of the John Muir Trail. The first leg is the favorite Mist Trail to Vernal Falls, which is an ideal hike for families. For those in good shape who want to continue on up the trail, Nevada Falls is the next level and farther yet for the truly adventurous is the world famous Half Dome climb, an exhilarating experience enjoyed by visitors from around the globe. The 18 mile hike from Happy Isles to the top of Half Dome and back can be done in one day and I have actually done it twice. The final cable ascent up the slick back side of Half Dome is a thriller and has become so popular that you must now get a permit in advance to be one of the 400 hikers allowed to make the climb each day. If you’re not into hiking you can still drive up to the top of Glacier Point or to beautiful Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake. Just to give you some sense of the incredible beauty of Yosemite, I once witnessed a bus load of tourists from Switzerland oohing and awing as they stood transfixed by the scenery surrounding them while looking up from the valley floor.
Bishop, California
The one and a half hour drive from Yosemite to Bishop just 75 miles to the southeast will take you through Tuolumne Meadows, past Tenaya Lake and over the infamous Tioga Pass. After coming down from the mountains into the little town of Lee Vining on the east side of the Sierras you’ll want to take a look at nearby Mono Lake and the otherworldly tufa formations that line its shores. If time permits you can take a peek at June Lake and Mammoth Lakes before arriving in Bishop, the only city in Inyo County. Calling it a city is a bit misleading, as it’s more like stepping into a little western town back in the 1950s. Located in the Owens Valley with the trout filled Owens River flowing through it, Bishop is a magnet for sports aficionados from around the country and the nearby ski resorts and trailheads to the Sierras only add to the draw. If you are lucky enough to be there on the 4th of July, you can join in with the locals for an awesome fireworks display at the Bishop Airport. And be sure to have lunch at the popular Erick Schat’s Bakkery and Deli on Main Street.
Ever thought of taking a horseback ride up into the mountains? Well, Rainbow Pack Outfitters (named for the Rainbow Trail) is a family friendly business located just outside of Bishop that can make your dream come true. I took the four hour guided ride with family and friends up to Long Lake and highly recommend this as a way to experience the back country from the comfort of the saddle. Some of the trail drop-offs can be a bit hair-raising, but the sure-footed horses know their way. If all this isn’t enough to get you to Bishop, how about this! Just an hour’s drive east of Bishop up in the White Mountains are the oldest known living (non-clonal) organisms on earth, the Bristlecone Pines. Some of these trees are nearly 5,000 years old and were just getting started around the time the Pyramids were being built in Egypt. While it is well worth the trip to see these national treasures, the road is steep and winding in places so large RVs and trailers should not attempt this climb. And an hour south of Bishop are the Alabama Hills with their unusual rock formations which you are sure to recognize from the many movies and television shows that were filmed there. With a combination of driving and hiking you can see the old stomping grounds of Gene Autry, Hopalong Cassidy and the Lone Ranger and might even get a glimpse of nearby Mt. Whitney, the tallest mountain in the lower 48 states.
Lake Tahoe
Farther north up the mountainous backbone of the western United States is the other crown jewel of the Sierra Nevada, Lake Tahoe. Located on the border of California and Nevada, Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America and the second deepest lake in the United States. Completely surrounded by a stunning vista of mountains, Lake Tahoe is one of the most popular destinations for natives of the Golden West. It would literally require a book to describe all that this gorgeous lake and surrounding region have to offer, such as scenery, recreation, and sports, as well as entertainment and gambling at the North and South Shore state lines. While Squaw Valley was the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, it is just one of many world class ski resorts that dot the area. It seems like just yesterday that I took my first shaky run down the slopes at Heavenly Valley when I was in high school! While there are many motels and hotels available for visitors to the Tahoe area, camping is an inexpensive, fun way to experience the great outdoors…and there is just something about the smell of the pines up in this part of the Sierras! I can recommend the Fallen Leaf Lake campground at South Lake Tahoe, where I stayed with family and friends last month and the nearby Camp Richardson beach, one of the most pristine, clean, safe and beautiful beaches I’ve seen in a long time.
There are numerous side trips that visitors can take while visiting Lake Tahoe. Just 11 miles to the northwest is Donner Lake, where the ill-fated Donner Party spent the winter of 1846. If you like history, be sure to visit the Donner Memorial State Park and its Immigrant Trail Museum and explore the sites where their makeshift cabins were built by the lake and at nearby Alder Creek. About 60 miles east of North Shore Lake Tahoe is Reno, Nevada with its well-known casinos and entertainment. Just 26 miles south of Reno is the historic old silver mining town of Virginia City, where Samuel Clemens lived for a time and where he first began using his pen name of Mark Twain. While there you can visit Boot Hill and take a ride on the old steam train before stopping at the Bucket of Blood Saloon for a beer or a sarsaparilla.
Lake Alpine
The fourth gem in our Sierra Nevada treasure trove is Lake Alpine, located between Yosemite (3.5 hours or 144 miles to the south) and Lake Tahoe (just 1 hour or 50 miles to the north). If you’re looking for some of the same features as Yosemite and Tahoe, but without the crowds, this is a place you’ll want to check out. A study in contrasts, Alpine County is known for its high snow-covered peaks and its low population (just 1,175 in 2012). The nearby Bear Valley Ski Resort is responsible for a noticeable bump in the population during the winter. This area figured prominently in the westward migration to California just before and during the gold rush of the mid 1800s and is the site of an old immigrant trail. First explored by the likes of Kit Carson and John Fremont, Alpine County has retained its rugged wilderness ambience into the 21st Century.
Lake Alpine itself was formed in 1892 with the damming of Silver Creek by miners. It has now become a year round destination for those who enjoy fishing, camping, hiking, biking and canoeing or winter sports such as skiing and snowshoeing. One of the nicest features of the area is the nearly two miles of paved trails around the lake, making it accessible to wheelchairs. Don’t let the name discourage you from going just up the road to visit lily covered Mosquito Lake, a favorite of fishermen. The Ebbett’s Pass National Scenic Byway extends east of Lake Alpine heading towards Markleeville and is a beautiful, albeit winding, drive through some untouched sierra scenery. At an altitude of nearly 9,000 feet, the pass is closed due to snow in the winter. If you’d like to stay to stay overnight you can either camp or stay at the Lake Alpine Resort, a charming lodge that dates back to the 1930s.
I hope you have enjoyed this whirlwind tour of four treasures of the Sierra Nevada and will be inspired to visit these mountain gems someday. Take a tip from John Muir, one of the first visitors to appreciate this part of the country:
“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”
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